Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

+1 :) even though mine isn't the cheapest of cheapest RB30 builds it's far from expensive.

I'm aiming for 400rwhp when the GT35R goes on, I think this is going to be the upper end of the drivability limits of my rwd 32 platform and with my setup I'm probably going to be struggling to keep it down that low for now! There is still headroom for a bit more power too ;)

Personally I wouldn't waste money on the RB20 but, of course, I'm biased. The monster torque of the 30 makes for a very nice allround car, I mean I was following Tristan through the twisties on Friday in 4th gear up those hills.. the ol' RB20 wouldn't have liked that much..

+1 i am doing the same thing and building an rb35/30 its fairly cheap to get an rb25 and an rb30 block is even cheaper but remember if you want a reliable engine you are going to have to spend a fair bit of money have you taken everything into account that you will also need to buy?

I think iv made my decision..... i think ill be going for the 25

i think the cost of a 25 could be a little better and it also means ill have more cash to add my big turbo n clutch and so forth ;)

I cant wait.... now ill be in the hunt for 25 half cut so if anyones knows of the ideal place/person to get a well looked after 25 then this would be greatly appreciated. otherwise ill find one :happy:

Personally I wouldn't waste money on the RB20 but, of course, I'm biased. The monster torque of the 30 makes for a very nice allround car, I mean I was following Tristan through the twisties on Friday in 4th gear up those hills.. the ol' RB20 wouldn't have liked that much..

Man the 25Neo didn't even like it...

I mean it 'managed' in 4th, but def wanted some more down low balls.... Sometimes, knocking it back to 3rd was required to keep up with the cars ahead...

btw, I think go either a 25 or 25/30 combo engine... Make sure you get a NEO so you've got solid lifters and NVCT on both the intake and exhaust...

Edited by Marco-R34GTT
Man the 25Neo didn't even like it...

I mean it 'managed' in 4th, but def wanted some more down low balls.... Sometimes, knocking it back to 3rd was required to keep up with the cars ahead...

btw, I think go either a 25 or 25/30 combo engine... Make sure you get a NEO so you've got solid lifters and NVCT on both the intake and exhaust...

yeh i thought about a NEO... will that go in with no hassle like the 33 rb25 or they basically the same.... i wouldnt mind a neo because its a newer engine

Too many hassles :nyaanyaa:

BTW my drivability through the hills the other night will disappear when the big turbo goes on.. because power is so early and delivered so linearly is great but once new turbo is on I'll only be able to floor it on the straight bits :(

Umm.. even then I wouldn't be able to floor it until the straight bits.. VH41 + TT would just send me into a tree faster :nyaanyaa:

To be honest though, with the 3L + GT35R I should have decent low down with absolutely insanity over 3000rpm :(

if you want a 26 your better selling up and buying a gtr but if you'd like to go down the path of a 26 in yours with rwd setup easiest option is to buy a half cut as you'll have everything in there like all the hoses front brakes wiring resistor packs front mount intercooler+piping and yeh

same with the 25 get a half cut all is there like brakes, wiring and hoses and shit

cheers

andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...