Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering how much $ im lookin at about roughly for a full white respray, the cars already white just has sum fairly faded parts and ppl have keyed it and chipped bits off the paint off :banana: , i kno u pay extra if u want the inside of an an engine bay resprayed etc bt im jus lookin at the outside , as the inside doesnt need any at all.

cheers

Alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/
Share on other sites

Price realy depends on work that is needed but as people have said that it will fall between 3/5k for a desent job .

the parts that effect prices are dents off cause windows been taken out if they have rubbers that are hard up againt the paint (some will say that this doesn't need to happen but this is why you see paint flaking in these area on skylines) how much work is needed to the front bumber before paint ,body kit will also cost more as well if a big one.

If its a basic white with a few scatches stone chips and a few shoppping dents that need to be done I would say around 3k from there the above will start to cost more .

Ps I am in Perth nth the river and do this for a living so if you need a quote advise or info feel free to pm me or come see me at my shop Pm for this as well if wanted .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3831209
Share on other sites

I think itd be good if we could get a rough price table or chart happening? Like how much you'd expect to pay for certain things. Example if you only needed your new front bar sprayed and what you could expect to pay depending on what prep work you had done.

This is hard as this all depends on the panel or bumber etc .

Fibre glass costs alot more than plastic second costs alot more than new.

Most places would charge about 400.00 for a plastic bar about 600 for the same in fibre glass .

This would apply for the bonnets as well about 400.00 steel in and out and between 400 to 1k for a fibre glass depending on work involved to prep .

As you can see I could go on for some time but what I am trying to say ther eis no real approx price as per say .

Colours also lay a factor as well in cost some colours can be done in 2 to 3 coats some take up to 5 which is nearly twice the colour some colours require 3 stages to reach the end colour .

PS people doing their own prep work can work out costing you more in the end as not many people prep well or use the right products this is best left to the person you want to do the job or with their advise so you are both going in the same direction

Edited by Xicon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3831231
Share on other sites

It depends on wha paints you get - Acrylic, Enamel, 2 pac in a solid, metallics or custom colour...

Its usually cheper to get the shop to buy them for you anyway, or are you just after an approx cost?

You gotta think of it like this:

Undercoat

Colour

Clear

you'll use approx 3-5L of each when spraying the car (depending on the thinners mix)

I purchased the paints for my 31 home respray at *almost* trade price from the local Auto1

total was about $700 for metallic 2pacs.

2pac undercoat ~ 5L + Hardener

quick dry 2pac enamel ~6L (3 colours)

2pac Clear ~ 5L + Hardener

2pac Thinners ~ 10L

All DeBeers paints.

Edited by B. J.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3832107
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...