Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering how much $ im lookin at about roughly for a full white respray, the cars already white just has sum fairly faded parts and ppl have keyed it and chipped bits off the paint off :banana: , i kno u pay extra if u want the inside of an an engine bay resprayed etc bt im jus lookin at the outside , as the inside doesnt need any at all.

cheers

Alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/
Share on other sites

Price realy depends on work that is needed but as people have said that it will fall between 3/5k for a desent job .

the parts that effect prices are dents off cause windows been taken out if they have rubbers that are hard up againt the paint (some will say that this doesn't need to happen but this is why you see paint flaking in these area on skylines) how much work is needed to the front bumber before paint ,body kit will also cost more as well if a big one.

If its a basic white with a few scatches stone chips and a few shoppping dents that need to be done I would say around 3k from there the above will start to cost more .

Ps I am in Perth nth the river and do this for a living so if you need a quote advise or info feel free to pm me or come see me at my shop Pm for this as well if wanted .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3831209
Share on other sites

I think itd be good if we could get a rough price table or chart happening? Like how much you'd expect to pay for certain things. Example if you only needed your new front bar sprayed and what you could expect to pay depending on what prep work you had done.

This is hard as this all depends on the panel or bumber etc .

Fibre glass costs alot more than plastic second costs alot more than new.

Most places would charge about 400.00 for a plastic bar about 600 for the same in fibre glass .

This would apply for the bonnets as well about 400.00 steel in and out and between 400 to 1k for a fibre glass depending on work involved to prep .

As you can see I could go on for some time but what I am trying to say ther eis no real approx price as per say .

Colours also lay a factor as well in cost some colours can be done in 2 to 3 coats some take up to 5 which is nearly twice the colour some colours require 3 stages to reach the end colour .

PS people doing their own prep work can work out costing you more in the end as not many people prep well or use the right products this is best left to the person you want to do the job or with their advise so you are both going in the same direction

Edited by Xicon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3831231
Share on other sites

It depends on wha paints you get - Acrylic, Enamel, 2 pac in a solid, metallics or custom colour...

Its usually cheper to get the shop to buy them for you anyway, or are you just after an approx cost?

You gotta think of it like this:

Undercoat

Colour

Clear

you'll use approx 3-5L of each when spraying the car (depending on the thinners mix)

I purchased the paints for my 31 home respray at *almost* trade price from the local Auto1

total was about $700 for metallic 2pacs.

2pac undercoat ~ 5L + Hardener

quick dry 2pac enamel ~6L (3 colours)

2pac Clear ~ 5L + Hardener

2pac Thinners ~ 10L

All DeBeers paints.

Edited by B. J.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3832107
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...