Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

Has anyone done any t/c or s/c to your v35 yet? Any suggestion?

What sort of power range am i looking to get from either one of them?

I know it has the same engine components from 350z and APS has a complete kit for the twin turbo setup? Is it a good option?

Please help me with this, as it struggles me very much!!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217132-twin-turbo-or-supercharge/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Your budget is the limit. There are daily driven 400rwkW+ FM platform cars running around the US.

You can pull around 300rwkW reliably on the stock internals. The stock fuel system (bar the injectors, which need to be replaced below 230rwkW) will flow to around 340rwkW....but you wouldn't want to do that anywhere but on a dyno.

I think APS hit around 750rwhp with their 350Z "Extreme Kit" demo car with the appropriate supporting mods.

If i go for the APS kit and keep the standard internals, will i be easy to get 280rwkw? and is it safe tune?

On the other hand, how much am i looking to spend with this APS TT kit? any ideas?

thanks

Hey mate,

APS Australia will not help you with a kit for your 350GT. They are only interested in the 350Z.

Well that was the case when I spoke to them. In saying that, i think the full kit is upwards of $15k.

If you go for a US kit you need to make sure that the manifold will fit on the Jap 350GT as remember there are things like steering equipment on the opposite sides of the cars.

Personally if budget was not a problem I'd go with the HKS Supercharger. The gains aren't massive but i have heard it's a great kit.

I spoke to them (APS) and they quoted me $17k with no guarantee it will fit. that is their std 500HP twin turbo kit for 350z.

i asked CNJ in Underwood in QLD, the mechanics there told me the APS TT kit will fit on v35, only mods is the exhaust length that needs to be extended as 350z has shorter body...

thanx guys

If i go for the APS kit and keep the standard internals, will i be easy to get 280rwkw? and is it safe tune?

On the 350Z the 280rwkW is a safe, ADR compliant tune. However, as per the link the V35's front bar causes heating issues in comparison so your mileage may vary.

On the other hand, how much am i looking to spend with this APS TT kit? any ideas?

From APS, brand new, the turn-key price with the APS catback for a 350Z is around $16K. As stated you need a different exhaust, or some custom made piping to make up the difference in length. That doesn't include the APS tall-boy plenum, which I would recommend. I also have no idea what's in that V35 fitting kit, or how much it costs.

You'll also want to budget for a front bar with a bigger grille opening, and a new clutch / auto trans toughening. If you're running stock wheels and tyres, you'll need new ones.

That that point the car will be streetable, but on the track you'll definitely need an oil cooler.

You'd be best off trying to find a second hand one, if one comes up. I know of one or two guys that found it cheaper to buy it from the US and sea freight it down here.

Yes, $16k that sounds about right - walk in walk out drive away solution...

Not sure about HKS S/C - I got a magazine from Hong Kong here which everything in chinese but it shows an option of either HKS TT kit or SC kit -

The HSK TT kit was fitted to 350Z and the SC kit was fitted to the V35... probably will cost about $10k not including shipping and labour.

Not sure about HKS S/C - I got a magazine from Hong Kong here which everything in chinese but it shows an option of either HKS TT kit or SC kit

A mate of mine had the HKS SC, and has now replaced it with the HKS ST.

The SC pulled 235rwkW (approx) with the standard kit. The ST pulls about the same, but with an EBC and tuning is now making around 266rwkW at 9psi. A lot cheaper and more flexible than having to swap pulleys, as you will for the S/C if you want to adjust boost.

Both the SC and ST run a half-width FMIC, which may limit you if you're chasing bigger numbers. On the plus side, its more responsive and it works "well enough" for the numbers he's currently making. The ST boosts earlier than the APS TT I drove, and since its a single and not twins it ramps up a little harder, so it feels cooler :bunny:

I think the $10K fitted cost is about right. He got it through BD4s.

If you're not going to track it you should be OK, from an engine heat perspective. The V35 should be better than the Z33 as the big V35 grille isn't totally obscured by an intercooler, unlike the Z33. I know of some Z33s that have been daily driven with APS TT kits and cope in traffic.

Your issue will be with intercooler performance, as a lot of the intercooler sits between the two lower front vents. If you have a look at APS' animated GIF:

front.gif

Very little of the intercooler has access to direct airflow. There's also not much room to run ducting from the stock vents to the intercooler core either.

The power up kit I currently favour is this one as seen as SEMA 2007 ;

gallery_1903_2168_264090.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_462642.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_953619.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_254014.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_729148.jpg

The indicated price at SEMA was $US6K to $US7K, Nengun now has them for $A5,000 to $A6,000 delivered. It fits the range of HKS turbos GTSS, GT2530Kai and GTRS, I am thinking the GTRS's as the 3.5 litre will have no problem spooling them up. The GTRS's are a pretty good fit for an RB30DETT, so the extra 0.5 litre should make them quite responsive. They are capable of more power than my standard internals target, but I can run low boost and still make around 300 rwkw, which would be nice. Then I have the airflow for higher power if I upgrade the internals, which are getting cheaper by the day in the US.

I like the flexibility this kit allows, even though it is specified for a right hand drive Z33, the parts in the kit are not chassis specific. It has its own dumps so then I can use whatever exhaust system I find from there back to suite the V35. I prefer the twin pass intercooler layout from PWR. All I need to do is design the alloy intercooler pipework from the HKS compressor oulet pipes to the intercooler.

As for cooling I was looking at this style of front bumper;

gallery_1903_2168_470333.jpg

Cheers

Gary

yeah~i have been to the website, the AUS$5900 only includes the turbo kit setup components, it's not like the APS full kit...

so AUS$5900 delivered plus ECU, injectors, fuel pump and FMIC and labouring time to install..ect, it will end up by spending the same amount for the APS TT kit. on the other hand, APS TT kit is AUS delivery components mechanics are more fimiliar with the setup especially CNJ is the lisenced dealer for the APS TT kit, they will know better during the installation procedure...the HKS TT kit seems not a bad choice either, but the costs and the experience are still shortage in AUS i believe...

anyone has any idea?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...