Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what i have for sale is

-complete rb20det with wiring loom and ecu injectors and inlet manifold and rb25det turbo,the head has been fully rebuilt and rocket covers also been cleaned up $650 worth of receipts engine comes with also a apexi safc2 and electronic boost controler already wired in so the loom is ready to go straight in also included is hks turbo timer,intercooler and pipes plus stage 2 turbo smart bov, the coils are included with the loom.$2000

m trying to sell as a complete package to begin parts not listed in package are avalible now

-i am loacted in nowra and my mobile number is 0423535991and i am located in nowra 1 hour and half south of sydney for any more information any 1 needs

if im not able to sell as a package i will then separate

wouldent hurt to make some offers as well

-rb20det $1300

-rb25det turbo $250

-wiring loom,ecu and safc2 and elec boost controler coils included $450

-complete intercooler setup(pipping and cooler brackets included)type 2 turbosmart bov $200

-hks turbo timer $100

-rb25det block out of an r33 $500o.n.o

-r31 rb30 cylinder head and inlet manifold all injectors etc are included $150

-rb30 dizzy $100

this is a pic before the head and engine was taken out for rebuild

t104189_12032008051.jpg

t104190_12032008052.jpg

t104191_12032008053.jpg

t104192_16042008078.jpg

t104193_16042008077.jpg

HKS turbo timer

t121502_01052008102.jpg

pics of rebuilt engine coming very soon

rb20det

t121493_01052008091.jpg

t121495_01052008092.jpg

rb20det wiring loom with ecu and apexi safc 2 and apexi electronic boost controler already wired in

t121496_01052008085.jpg

rb25det turbo

t121497_01052008089.jpg

INTERCOOLER AND PIPE SETUP for r31(few pipies not shown in pic from crossover pipe

more intercooler setup

t121503_12032008051.jpg

t121500_01052008093.jpg

t121501_01052008095.jpg

RBb25DET block

rb25det inlet manifold

t121516_01052008103.jpg

t121492_01052008081.jpg

R31 rb30 head and inlet manifold

t121517_01052008082.jpg

and dizzy

t121518_01052008098.jpg

Edited by hr31_king2008

loom and ecu now $250

rb20det complete with tiebo and moanifolds $1300

intercooler+pipes $300

and type 2 boost controler with pipes

will take $1500 for loom ecu and intercooler setup and rb20det compplete with rb25turbo

rb25turbo $200

i only sold the safc2 and boost controler all other parts from the first post are still for sale

make me an off on parts i will swap for other items if i am interested you have to be able to provide pics or show me the tiem in person

thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

hey mate sorry for the late reply been really busy

the intercooler came off my hr31 2 door

the dimentions are 620mm / 300mm/ 80mm

the pipes come with a type 2 turbosmart bov already attatched and it was running with a rb20det engine with a rb25det turbo

yes ill take 200 for the setup

Edited by s_phillisstar2008

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...