Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what i have for sale is

-complete rb20det with wiring loom and ecu injectors and inlet manifold and rb25det turbo,the head has been fully rebuilt and rocket covers also been cleaned up $650 worth of receipts engine comes with also a apexi safc2 and electronic boost controler already wired in so the loom is ready to go straight in also included is hks turbo timer,intercooler and pipes plus stage 2 turbo smart bov, the coils are included with the loom.$2000

m trying to sell as a complete package to begin parts not listed in package are avalible now

-i am loacted in nowra and my mobile number is 0423535991and i am located in nowra 1 hour and half south of sydney for any more information any 1 needs

if im not able to sell as a package i will then separate

wouldent hurt to make some offers as well

-rb20det $1300

-rb25det turbo $250

-wiring loom,ecu and safc2 and elec boost controler coils included $450

-complete intercooler setup(pipping and cooler brackets included)type 2 turbosmart bov $200

-hks turbo timer $100

-rb25det block out of an r33 $500o.n.o

-r31 rb30 cylinder head and inlet manifold all injectors etc are included $150

-rb30 dizzy $100

this is a pic before the head and engine was taken out for rebuild

t104189_12032008051.jpg

t104190_12032008052.jpg

t104191_12032008053.jpg

t104192_16042008078.jpg

t104193_16042008077.jpg

HKS turbo timer

t121502_01052008102.jpg

pics of rebuilt engine coming very soon

rb20det

t121493_01052008091.jpg

t121495_01052008092.jpg

rb20det wiring loom with ecu and apexi safc 2 and apexi electronic boost controler already wired in

t121496_01052008085.jpg

rb25det turbo

t121497_01052008089.jpg

INTERCOOLER AND PIPE SETUP for r31(few pipies not shown in pic from crossover pipe

more intercooler setup

t121503_12032008051.jpg

t121500_01052008093.jpg

t121501_01052008095.jpg

RBb25DET block

rb25det inlet manifold

t121516_01052008103.jpg

t121492_01052008081.jpg

R31 rb30 head and inlet manifold

t121517_01052008082.jpg

and dizzy

t121518_01052008098.jpg

Edited by hr31_king2008

loom and ecu now $250

rb20det complete with tiebo and moanifolds $1300

intercooler+pipes $300

and type 2 boost controler with pipes

will take $1500 for loom ecu and intercooler setup and rb20det compplete with rb25turbo

rb25turbo $200

i only sold the safc2 and boost controler all other parts from the first post are still for sale

make me an off on parts i will swap for other items if i am interested you have to be able to provide pics or show me the tiem in person

thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

hey mate sorry for the late reply been really busy

the intercooler came off my hr31 2 door

the dimentions are 620mm / 300mm/ 80mm

the pipes come with a type 2 turbosmart bov already attatched and it was running with a rb20det engine with a rb25det turbo

yes ill take 200 for the setup

Edited by s_phillisstar2008

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...