Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While i was at work today, i noticed that my car wouldn't turn off. I have a HKS turbo timer installed thats made to run for 1 min after the keys have been taken out. But today when i got to work i went inside and about half an hour later i came back and the car was still on. So i went out there and pushed the off button on the turbo timer, still no luck. nothing would turn it off. So i put it in first, and stalled it so it would stop, (only way i could think of other than fuses + battery)

Now, i had an alarm / immobiliser system fitted the day before, but it worked fine the day i had it put in. Would this have anything to do with it?

Opinion? Ideas?

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217323-car-wont-turn-off-s/
Share on other sites

what everyone else has said, its most likely your alarm not working well with the turbo timer

and you dont really need to have the turbo timer sent for a minute. 10-15 seconds tops if your just street drivingand even then thats abit much. longer your cars running with the tt its easier for it to be stolen :s

Solution.. Have it removed.

You don't need it. UNLESS you drive like an idiot everywhere foot flat to the floor, pull up with your seat belt off and instantly turn the car off.

Over 7 years and 200,000+ km's I've never ran a turbo time and never had issues with coking and I've removed the turbo and oil lines to check. :D All clean as a whistle.

Everyone has made the valid point mate....you wont have that problem with a Greddy Unit lol.....yeah personally i have a TT installed but i sit in the car and wait for it to shut off anyway so now i dont see the point in getting that done.......and yeah 1 minute is way too long....i was told by my tuner that 30-40 secs maximum.....and with the greddy units the time goes up if you are doing a spirited hills driving or something......but most of the time it just stays at 30 secs

At the end of the day a tt isnt so much for your car not to overheat but to let the turbo cool down and not buckle the wheels!! We learnt the hard way on our race car after thrashing on the track and went to shut down straight away, but in saying this we were "thrashing hard" as you do on the track, so for everyday driving like prob the most of us we dont need them, wait 5-15 sec in the car when you pull up and then shut her down!!

on the road, simply dont boost into positive presure for the last 3mins, to let the turbo cool down naturally

I turned my TT off the 1st day I got the car. heaps of wires, so I wont remove it, but just keep it turned off.

(went to fill up after picking up the car from int.transport, 3mins later at petrol pump it finally turned off.... embarresing with the line up lol)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...