Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed a walboro fuel pump, but realised i didnt mount it inside the fuel tank, i just put it in. is this a big problem if its sitting loosely inside the fuel tank? I dont really want to do it all again, but i think i will have to..

car seems to be running fine (96 skyline gtst)

yeah your right, ill take it out again tommorrow and fix it. the black screw lid thing was a real bitch to tighen

Seriously mate, step away from the car and don't go near it again. You need to not touch any car in a mechanical fashion.

I'll get my 4yo niece to come around and sort it out for you

3lit3 32- you dont have to be a wanker about it. the reason why i said it is because the original fuel pump was sitting loosely in the tank when i removed it. then i saw the article about fuel pumps here and saw it should actually be mounted inside the fuel tank.

it is securely connected to the original bracket. but the bracket is not mounted inside the fuel tank. i didnt know it was meant to be mounted until i read a article on installing the fuel pump here and saw the bracket should be mounted. (the fuel pump/bracket was loose in the tank when i took it out, so i just presumed (wrongly) it was normal).

3lit3 32- you dont have to be a wanker about it. the reason why i said it is because the original fuel pump was sitting loosely in the tank when i removed it. then i saw the article about fuel pumps here and saw it should actually be mounted inside the fuel tank.

You may think I'm being a wanker but I am actually trying to help you.

By working on your car yourself, you will most likely destroy it slowly but surely. If you can't afford to pay a professional to do it, at least take some time to research the install before you do it and use some common sense as a guide.

It sucks more because that black lid is such a bitch to get off

That is true. But, you can actually buy the tool for it from Nissan. You can also easily make one and if that fails, a meter long flat bar will do it also. Make sure the bar is not sharp on the end...place it against one of the extrusions on the edge of the lid and then tap the bar with a hammer or your palm (using some sort of padding). Hit it an anti-clockwise direction and it will come loose. If you are competant at welding, it is even easier to make a tool for it.

jesus go easy guys. I recon if we open the fuel tanks of every syline on here about 20% of them will have the pump cradle loose from the floor. Mine has come loose in the race car twice now, both times leaving the 12v supply broken off and floating loose in the fuel as it was so poetically said above

the factory mounting on the floor of the tank is crap and unreliable.

thanks for the criticisms.

another thing i forgot to ask. when i installed the walboro pump, it replaced the 12v and earth connections, and says in the instructions to use a crimp connection (supplied with the pump) to connect the factory wires (connecting to the factory harness) to the walboro wires (which connect to the new harness on the new pump). i have done this, but i thought it was a bit dodgy as its probably sitting in fuel. is this what everyone else has done with walboro pumps? or is there a better way to connect the wires so theyre better insulated inside the tank. i was thinking of puting some kind of tape around the connections, but though it would probably cause more harm if the tape came undone and was loose in the fuel tank.

thanks for the criticisms.

another thing i forgot to ask. when i installed the walboro pump, it replaced the 12v and earth connections, and says in the instructions to use a crimp connection (supplied with the pump) to connect the factory wires (connecting to the factory harness) to the walboro wires (which connect to the new harness on the new pump). i have done this, but i thought it was a bit dodgy as its probably sitting in fuel. is this what everyone else has done with walboro pumps? or is there a better way to connect the wires so theyre better insulated inside the tank. i was thinking of puting some kind of tape around the connections, but though it would probably cause more harm if the tape came undone and was loose in the fuel tank.

No tape will stick inside the fuel tank.

A better way would be to solder the wires together. If you are going to use crimp terminals, make sure you stagger them so they are not next to each other. That way if they come loose or break, they will not touch each other

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...