Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem with their R32 GTR.....

Normal diriving, no problems, and the majority of the time it's the same when driving hard...... HOWEVER - every now and then, i'll give it a good squirt and the brakes will end up being rock solid - no assist at all!! scary stuff.... thankfully I have a brake stopper and am able to mash the pedal hard enough to stop...... The 60 seconds later it's fine again!?!?

So, has anyone else had this problem? I have replaced all the lines to the booster with speedflow, checked the one way valve inline to the booster and it seems to be functioning fine....

Any ideas?? Cheers ya all!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217610-r32-gtr-hard-brake-pedal/
Share on other sites

Hmm, not too sure here. I have to admit mine is touchy!!,, but not so it locks uncontrollably.

I did have!! a Fiat which did similar to what you describe, and it turned out to be the nearside flexible pipe that was almost blocked with some kind of black goo, this stopped the fluid retrning to release the pressure sufficienlty to be normal before i touched the brakes again, and man, did it skate to a halt on occasions, before I realised it was not completely predictable.

no you're thinking of the other foot.

right foot controls the amount of boost. left foot controls the car's speed.

but seriously, when your foot is on the throttle there is no vacuum for the brake booster. if you are braking at the same time, once the vacuum resoviour is empty there is no vacumm assist left, and the pedal goes rock hard.

Right, got u now..... to answer your question - no, no accel and brake at same time. And after it goes hard even when slipped into neutral at the throttle left alone the brakes remain rock hard for about a minute or so.....

PS - my guage reads 20in. vac also....

Check the fluid in the system is not hygroscopic, as in absorbs water/moisture, 95 % is..!

If it has been contaminated as in left open to the atmosphere, it will absorb moisture, and, underpressure of braking, the water part in the fluid will boil, and produce steam, and pressure will build up above what you have exerted on the piston/s, and may actually force back hard enough to feel hard. Failing that, it could be low on fluid, or if fitted, the ABS pump may be in difficulty. Ususally in my experience, the seals in the master cylinder , or the bore have failed, leaving you almost pressing on the end-stop, which will feel rock-hard too.

So,

1, Fluid change. (will probably not do any harm anyway, as it is often neglected)

2, Check ABS system is ok, and functioning correctly.

3, Suspect master cylinder.

4, Blocked or damaged lines.

There, if any more ideas flash thro my head I will scribble them here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...