Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It will fit but not completely.

The small 10mm bolt hole at the top will not line up and you will have to fill it with silicon or something similar. I recommend 3 bond.

This topic has been covered 1 billion times. Try to use the search function next time.

Cheers, Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3852333
Share on other sites

what about putting a 10mm bolt in there covered with loctite and then grind the head off so its flat, should seal ok and never come loose.

There is absolutely no point in doing that. Coolant does not leak out of the hole. The bolt is there to provide clamping force to the sealing surface. Without it there you can run the risk of it leaking. Usually a fair while down the track but it is still possible.

It fits....use it if you want to. It probably won't ever leak but make sure you fill the hole up with silicon. And don't come crying on here if it does leak as you have been told it may do so.

That is all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3855361
Share on other sites

There is absolutely no point in doing that. Coolant does not leak out of the hole. The bolt is there to provide clamping force to the sealing surface. Without it there you can run the risk of it leaking. Usually a fair while down the track but it is still possible.

It fits....use it if you want to. It probably won't ever leak but make sure you fill the hole up with silicon. And don't come crying on here if it does leak as you have been told it may do so.

That is all.

as a mechanic I suggest against it just buy the proper pump, however if money is that big of problem using either 3bond super sealant (which can only be bought from specialist stores/trade suppliers) or "Ultra Blue" sealer which is readily available from supercheap/auto one or and good spare parts shops apply a thin but full smear of thesealer on booth sides of the gasket and make sure the new pump and surfce of the motor are clean and dry fit the pump with even force over all bolts and allow a few hours set before fitting pulley beltsand fan that should be enough and as suggested earlier fill the left over hole with sealant and allow to set before refilling coolant and running motor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3855391
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...