Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i got a rb25 and i need to rebuild it so should i go forged or standed im looking to get about 260kw but i have how much would i be looking at for the parts or should i just get a front cut or somthing els i was looking at a 98 model rb25 engine but i did not no if the wirering of my series1 thanks o and one more thing i hypergear worth looking at i was thinking going with them for my new turbo aswell

Punctuation is your friend :domokun:

If you are only aiming for 260 at the rears then just go out and buy a second hand motor. Stock internals will handle that power.

But obviously you will need all the supporting mods:

Power FC(or similar)

555cc injectors(or similar)

Bigger fuel pump

Intercooler

Highflowed turbo (or similar aftermarket turbo)

That will all come to about 5-6k (excluding labour)

pistons - $1400

rods (GTR) $150 (i forget ARP rod bolt prices, maybe $150 also)

Depending on what else is busted, like how bad the failure was etc will depend on other costs (like if the crank is stuffed and needs replacing)

Also depends what you want done at the same time like oil restrictors, what bearings you choose, head tidy up, head gasket etc etc -

You'd also do the turbo at the same time so manifold gaskets, new manifold studs (almost a required item IMO) and any other hoses that might be perishing etc etc

So could be as much as another 3-5k. Then $1k - 1.2k for motor in/out and so on, its really something thats hard to tell

I wouldnt use a hypergear turbo on a built motor though, its like building a drag car and putting 225 street tyres on it, does the motor no justice.

Put a nice GT3076 on it or something with some great midrange and top end.

pistons - $1400

rods (GTR) $150 (i forget ARP rod bolt prices, maybe $150 also)

Depending on what else is busted, like how bad the failure was etc will depend on other costs (like if the crank is stuffed and needs replacing)

Also depends what you want done at the same time like oil restrictors, what bearings you choose, head tidy up, head gasket etc etc -

You'd also do the turbo at the same time so manifold gaskets, new manifold studs (almost a required item IMO) and any other hoses that might be perishing etc etc

So could be as much as another 3-5k. Then $1k - 1.2k for motor in/out and so on, its really something thats hard to tell

I wouldnt use a hypergear turbo on a built motor though, its like building a drag car and putting 225 street tyres on it, does the motor no justice.

Put a nice GT3076 on it or something with some great midrange and top end.

ok no worrys thanks for that like im still not to shour if the motor is gone it going to be looked at again i had a compression test done and it was all over the place but the place i took it to did not no whta it would be im hoping its just a head gasket but idont think that would cause to car not to start

Punctuation is your friend :domokun:

If you are only aiming for 260 at the rears then just go out and buy a second hand motor. Stock internals will handle that power.

But obviously you will need all the supporting mods:

Power FC(or similar)

555cc injectors(or similar)

Bigger fuel pump

Intercooler

Highflowed turbo (or similar aftermarket turbo)

That will all come to about 5-6k (excluding labour)

thanks mate let me no if u hear anyhting about some engines thank u

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...