Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what people do when they are coming up to a stop light and anticipate stopping there for a minute.

Downshift or brake to idle rpm and then coast in neutral (what I'm doing now). Basically I figured that clutches are more expensive than brake pads.

Also I have heard differing things regarding skipping gears on downshifts putting more strain on your transmission? I thought that as long as the revs fall within your safe range for the gear you intend to go into, it shouldn't matter how many gears you skip. Is this true or not?

Thanks.

Edited by Phatboy
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Half half really, depends how lazy I am !!

Although since the new engine went in, its usually neutral........

I've been told the skipping gears going up can be bad for the box (synchros) .... not sure re downshift though.... assuming prolly the same. This could be a complete load of crap though...?!?

yer i usually down shift but thats how i was taught to drive i think lol

cant remember who said it but i think someone said to downshift coz u save ur brakes so u dnt have to change em as often but meh

Coast up to the stop, with system in gear (no need to down change) until it requires the clutch being disengaged.

There is no wear in the clutch while it is fully engaged. The wear occurs on "take-up" from a standing start, because you need to slip it a bit as it engages and transfers power to the gearbox. And there should be minimal wear in the brakes, because most of the stopping is achieved by friction in the drivetrain.

I heard that there was wear in the clutch when fully engaged even when not changing gears, and that's the reason why you shouldn't coast with it depressed, instead put it in neutral. May be wrong, just what I heard from a few people.

It depends on distance to the lights when they change.

If I'm close, then clutch in and brake.

If far away, I downshift through the gears to second but use rev matching to minimise/eliminate clutch and synchro wear. (Needs a longer space to slow down than dropping the revs to idle and braking with clutch)

i double clutch, heal toe or flick it into neutral, skip gears sometimes as well, depends what mood i'm in really

i got taught to use the brakes when slowing down cos gearboxs cost more then brakes

Well the way I see it:

Downshifting.

Pros:

1. You have more control of the car, can accelerate quickly if needed.

2. It sounds better

Cons:

1. More wear/tear on clutch/synchros

2. If you engine brake without hitting the brakes, the guy behind you may not have noticed you have slowed down as your brake lights haven't lighted up.

The pros/cons of neutral would be the opposite obviously.

When I first started driving I would downshift coming up to a stop but only because it felt more controlled and it sounds cool too.

But then I got lazy and also figured the thing about brakepads & clutch wear and just coasted until just before the car needs more revs and neutraled it.

Edit: ^^ agree with the guy above in regards to when you engine brake, people behind you can't see you slowing down as easily.

Many years ago I was taught to downshift and brake...The reason behind it is when the car is in gear you have more control over the car with engine braking ect, coasting less control. If you've ever driven anything heavy like a fully laden truck you'd never consider coasting.

Also i'm on year 4 with both brakes and clutch on this car(app 42k on em), so I won't be changing my driving style....also sounds cooler :blink:

The cost of a decent h-d clutch, compared to h-d pads and quality rotors? who'd like to call that one? :blush:

We could also throw in the occasional calliper rebuild or 2 just bump cost a bit..

Clutch plus install is about $1-1.5k I thought.

Stockish brake pads are like what, $200 a set? Rotors are about $600-800 a set? But you wouldn't need to replace your rotors unless you do a lot of hard braking and they warped would you? ie., track use. In that case you would need to replace your clutch before anything else anyway.

I don't intend to do much track driving, and brake pads should last around 30k I think, so I am happy to sacrifice them rather than my clutch. And I'm too lazy to downshift (main reason) :blush: My clutch has been changed about 1 year ago to a Nismo copper twin plate clutch, so I think with my driving style it should last many many years to come.

If it's wet I put the clutch in and rip the handbrake on then hold the car at a 45 degree angle as I approach the lights. Tyres don't wear in the wet, and since the rears are locked and I'm not on the pedal I'm not using any brakes at all!

(I'm not serious, btw)

normally downshift at least to 3rd, and coast in-gear until i need to put the clutch in. it's better to be in gear, you'll get docked during a driving test if you neutral + coast, because if something happens and you need to put your foot down you're going to get a whole lot of revs and not much else.

I think its illegal to roll in neutral (in victoria)..

What i do is just stay in gear as im coming up to the lights and clutch in as soon as the car comes to a stop. By downshifting you're just revving the engine more and burning more fuel..

Downshifting is good if you are rolling to the lights which are going to change green before you come to a stop.

Clutch plus install is about $1-1.5k I thought.

Stockish brake pads are like what, $200 a set? Rotors are about $600-800 a set? But you wouldn't need to replace your rotors unless you do a lot of hard braking and they warped would you? ie., track use. In that case you would need to replace your clutch before anything else anyway.

I don't intend to do much track driving, and brake pads should last around 30k I think, so I am happy to sacrifice them rather than my clutch. And I'm too lazy to downshift (main reason) :) My clutch has been changed about 1 year ago to a Nismo copper twin plate clutch, so I think with my driving style it should last many many years to come.

Ahh so you're comparing a nice "brand name" clutch against the price of stock rotors and pads...same quality pls ;)

Probably more chance of warp/hotspots from using the coast/brake method than a combo of gearing and brakes...less load on the brakes = less heatsoak through pads/rotors and calipers.

I wonder If where people live or learnt to drive has an influence on there method of stopping ie:mountain areas compared to plains dwellers..I think It might.

But hey each to their own.. Whatever suit your stylez !!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...