Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, little while ago there was a post where someone sourced some oil filter with the nut welded on top of the filter. Tried searching for it but couldn't find the post. Anyone know anything about them or been using it? Just curious cus i've runned out of oem oil filters and wanna to give them a go. Thinking would make it easier as i don't have a relocation kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218678-oil-filter-with-nut-on-top/
Share on other sites

autobarn sell a 'drift' branded oil filter with nut on it.. its blue! cost 20 odd busk though ouch :)
You're on to it mate, that's the one URAS is recommending,hey what's $20 bucks for the features this filter has especially the ease of getting it off.

I would still recommend screwing these filters on by hand as normal if you can,and only using the nut for removal as if you use a spanner to do them up they will get powerful tight,you know when you put on a fresh filter and tighten it up that you can back it off easily if you want to straight away, but try it in a week and you know how hard they get,just my 2c worth Cheers Grey Pearl.

If a filter is done up to the right torque settings, you shouldn't need tools to remove it.

Every single car I have purchased in the last 5 yrs has had some spanner in the workshop try to tighten the neck of the friggin filter, resulting in squashing and possible damage to the rubber seal, and making it damn near impossible to get the filter off after the heat has helped it to stick.

All cars (including my GTR) had a screwdriver help me to convince the filter to let go and give up, but after that, hand tight has been more than enough to make a strong seal with the filter and make it possible to get off by hand only.

B.

My hand and filter removal tool doesnt fit down there in a bnr32 :P

yeah exactly my problem

I believe this is the topic you are refering to

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sw...bl-t204892.html

That's the one, thanks for that cooper. Looks like it hasn't been updated. Has anyone been using these?

You do them up about hand tight, but dont use anything else to do them up. I have heard stories of engines who have been destroyed because the oil filter was over tightened, something broke off and blocked off the flow. Do it as tight as you can by hand, but you will need a tool to get it off. If it is loose, it will leak oil

LoL at some of the suggestions.

Filter removal tools are just that.. for removal; u never use a tool to tighten a filter.

Remove filter, clean o-ring seat, lubricate new filters o-ring, tight by hand with moderate amount of force - done.

there are some orange filters out there that have the end you grip designed with a grip like paint on them to help you remove them ;)

Your talking about the Fram Grip, I think.

gallery_14713_1542_24561.jpg

In that famous oil filtration test done years ago, Fram didn't come up that well considering the cost.

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
    • Sweet, yeah hoping stock gears will hold up. May use the transbrake feature on hill climb starts so that will test it.
    • Yeah, the thread is only nearly 20 years old.
    • Been down in Tassie for 2 weeks (a cruise, not a race for once) but spent a little time on her when I got back. I worked out the injector settings in the PowerFC were not correct for nismo 555s, set those to 66% +10ms and added a little air at closed throttle, set the timing (approximately, because it has some weird non 15o cells around idle) and now she starts and idles properly. She purrs like a kitten (ignore the co2 alarm in the background, I did  ) 20250518_171052.mp4 Next step, off for run-in, tuning and alignment!
×
×
  • Create New...