Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Has anyone had problems with their fuel gauge/fuel tank? My fuel gauge was working fine but recently it varies wildly from 3/4 full to full. Also I cannot fill the tank more than about 3/4 full and there seems to be an air lock or something - even after shaking the car during filling, I can't fill the tank. Any clues?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218733-problems-with-fuel-gauge/
Share on other sites

Is it a mere faulty in-tank gauge signal reading or do you actually can only put less litres of petrol in your tank when refilling?

Both; I can't completely fill the tank and the fuel gauge moves from full to 3/4 full

Both; I can't completely fill the tank and the fuel gauge moves from full to 3/4 full

hey John,

Go as close to empty as possible and then fill up and see how many litres go in.

It does sound like a faulty guage, and i know that the fuel gauges/sensors in our cars and 350z are nothing short of crap.

I've filled up to the point where it just about overflows out, and the guage shows half a quarter to go. I can also be at half tank and within 5k's it shows close to a quarter left :P

LOL - i thought nissan should have fixed them (fuel gauge sensor) 10 years after the R33....

I think my gauge is stuffed as well I have some sort of air lock in the tank as the maximum I can put in is about 55 litres. Any clues on how to fix it???

  • 1 year later...
I think my gauge is stuffed as well I have some sort of air lock in the tank as the maximum I can put in is about 55 litres. Any clues on how to fix it???

I fixed the fuel gauge problem and it was easy. All you have to do is clean the sliding connections on the 2 fuel floats.

Take out the rear seat, expose the both openings to the 2 floats, withdraw the left float but just lift the right to expose the contacts and get a cotton bud to clean the sliding connections on both the floats. They don't seem dirty when you first see them but when you run the cotton bud over them you get a black oxide on the bud which is affecting the fuel gauge reading. Only takes about half hour.

I fixed the fuel gauge problem and it was easy. All you have to do is clean the sliding connections on the 2 fuel floats.

Take out the rear seat, expose the both openings to the 2 floats, withdraw the left float but just lift the right to expose the contacts and get a cotton bud to clean the sliding connections on both the floats. They don't seem dirty when you first see them but when you run the cotton bud over them you get a black oxide on the bud which is affecting the fuel gauge reading. Only takes about half hour.

Pics would be good.

  • Thanks 1
Hi Mate,

I've also had this problem where I can only fill up to about 3/4 full. I can only ever fill up around 40L max.

Also petrol gauge is all over the shop. Decides to move whenever she pleases.

That is exactly what mine was doing and now it seems to be stable and accurate. When I cleaned the connections today I noticed that the tank was half full of fuel when the gauge indicated that it was nearly empty. I have only taken it for a short drive and it seems accurate now and doesn't go all over the place; I will have to wait and see if it is permanent but the US forums seem to think that this is a good fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...