Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

don't listen to him..

yes you can replace with just one.

you'll need to make some sort of adapter up though.

I'll buy your shitty stock ones for $50.

that should be enough to have a custom, shiny metal adapter plate for your single atmo bov.

I would imagine just fitting one and blocking the other off as if you wanted to do the flutter it would work. I haven't actually seen the piping of the GTR and thought about it to really say.

Edit: Just realised there was no point to this post. :P

Edited by adam-__-

You can do that no worries, but remember its one pipe going into two bov's. Not two pipes, so all the air will just be fed to the one bov. You usually put two on as a better attempt to vent all the air. Putting one atmo bov on will just make it work harder and possibly not vent enough air so the excess would be sent back to the turbo charger and you would experience the flutter noise.

thanks for the info guys. I dont want to change the bovs by choice its just that i have bought a hard pipe kit for my gtr and the pipeing kit does not have provisions for the bov's to be plumbed back so my standard bov's are venting to the atmosphere at the moment and i think this is why i have poor idel and boost response takes a little longer to come on

thanks for the info guys. I dont want to change the bovs by choice its just that i have bought a hard pipe kit for my gtr and the pipeing kit does not have provisions for the bov's to be plumbed back so my standard bov's are venting to the atmosphere at the moment and i think this is why i have poor idel and boost response takes a little longer to come on

Id say your problem is more likely attributed to the fact you're venting to atmo, not that your using stock BOV to do so.

IE stock or aftermarket, without a retune your still going to have the same problem

GTR stock BOV's are better in every way than almost every aftermarket BOV I have ever tried. It's a 99.9% guarantee that it won't matter what BOV you use, you will still have the same problem.

Cheers

Gary

if your car still uses AFM, then they have to be plumbed back in.

the factory ones do not stay shut at idle.

so essentially, you have an air leak.

un-metered air entering your engine.

a:f mixture is screwed and you get idle/stalling issues etc.

If you are still running air-flow meters, you need to plumb the BOVs back to make the car run properly. no ifs, no buts.

If you have MAP fuelling, feel free to go nuts with BOVs that vent to atmosphere.

there are people who have atmo venting bovs on AFM equipt GTR's with no problems.

but there is always some tuning to help it.

I'm not sure of the exact parameter that needs to be adjusted but it would have something to do with overrun fueling or throttle closed fueling or something that describes what the ecu does when throttle is shut.

basically, you want to remove fuel at that point so that when the atmo bov vents the air out of the system, then the ecu doesn't inject the fuel it was going to, that would have mixed with the air that was vented.

  • 4 weeks later...

My GTR came over with twin atmo Blitz BOVs, no major issues - just runs a lil rich between gear changes, but I would of kept the stockers if I had a chance.

btw the newer hks ssqv for gtr comes with the adapter/replacement pipe to suit single atmo bov.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
×
×
  • Create New...