Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Good find on the engine parts, but please please please dont skimp on the $$$$ for labour costs in rebuilding the engine.

Mine cost 7k and is still runnning well, all rebuild at a well recognised mechanic etc. have a look at my SLY 33 gtst for sale thread and that gives you an idea of what i got, that included a wolf ecu as well. Unfortunately friends have gone for cheaper alternatives and have not gone as well with their engines, head gasket went on one of em.

I would go with shops such as Hyperdrive/top racing, prob two of the more well known shops.

in answer to your question about your gear box, troll through some of the clutch threads in the WA section as there was a great transmission and clutch specialist in Osborne park, I saw him about 6 months ago, its just near the triumph mechanic and WA suspension there, anwyays great old bloke and a whole heap of knowledge on the skyline boxes due to the amount of lcutches he had installed for all of the SAU crew.

sweet so im gonna cut costs in the pars department

by sourcing the parts myself

i havent had many recommedations on who to use in the build

so does anyone have any definate objections to using any particular workshops

cheers

cheers 25gtt i had only one in mind

purely cos the other is just to for away

guys ive been seaching and look what i found

ACL Forged Pistons and Rings (CP Forged also available)

Eagle Forged Rods (Optional)

ACL Race Series Mains Bearings

ACL Multi-Layer Steel Headgasket (Cometic also available)

Dupro VRS Kit (Engine Gasket Set)

for 2945 plus delivery

are the acl items up to scratch

or should i go the cp pistons and rings

i also found cank and main bearing kits for 86 and 128

cheers

^^

i was allowing 200 for each

will variey greatly depending where u get it from

over budget is better then under :)

my bad!

Fair enough, I did get them trade but they also had to order them from Japan.

i read somewhere that the n1 oil pump is dodgey on street driven cars

something bout it cant pump enough oil at low rpm or something

not sure how true it is

I'm running an N1 pump and it flows fine and has heaps of pressure. I've only heard of N1's not being fine when they regularly see 8000rpm with lots of limiter bashing.

N1 water pump on the other hand, shithouse for daily driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...