Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i'm taking the car to the mech tomorrow morning. but just need some ideas quick

Took off to go to work bout 6pm, car is still warm as i only got home at 5.30pm, so no need to warm up the car

come out of my driveway, probably hitting 3000rpm ish, car goes POOOOP, i was like wtf. Then power starts cutting out(lights start dimming and going bright again), eventually the car stablises, idles at 1000rpm, then alll of a sudden the revs build up slowly.....from 1000rpm to 5000rpm. so i turn off the car

so i opened the bonnet to make sure my accelerator cable wasn't caught. everything looks fine.

turn the car on, car revs slowly up to 4000rpm again~!!!

then i turn it off, stepped on the throttle again.

and turned the car on again, this time it idled properly. at 800rpm ish.

so i put the car back in the garage, and go to work as i'm alrdy late.

come back 4hrs later

turn on the car, idles properly, so i tried to back it out. i reversed about 5metres, car starts acting weird again. i let it idle, and it idles hell rough with revs jumping up and down ( 800-1000rpm). and the car sounds like a rex

so i wait for 2 mins with he car on, then the car idles and sounds normal again.

tried to take it for a drive. the car feels hell weird, no power at all. so i tried to slowly boost it..but NO boost at 4000rpm..wtf..i can hear the turbo spinning making a weird sound...

then the car starts losing power again. it struggles to idles. then stallls...wtf

i can still turn the car on, but idles hell weird. doesnt have power at all and doesnt make any boost

so any suggestions? please, i need to know whats wrong lol. or i cant sleep tonight

coilpack? turbo? cylinder?

and btw lately when i take off slowly i can hear a very light 'hummming' noise from the engine, but never took notice of it

i also have a vented bonnet. but it's only vented on top of the radiator. so i assume it has nothing to do with it as water only goes to the radiator

so any suggestions plz/??

cheers

steve

sorry bout the long post, and it probably doesnt make sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219402-wtf-my-cars-fked/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I had a air line come off the front of my motor, ran like shit , almost like on 5 cylinders.

Just go through everything around the engine, also you might have a dud Injector, been there....

I am around the corner, so If you wanted too I could come by and have a look....

Bit late now.

Mike

Hey Mike, which 'reputable' imports workshop is closest to innaloo? i wanna drive the car there instead of towing it

the one i usually used is like 20km's away so i dunno wanna drive that far

I looked on the 'The Consolidated Workshop Thread' and closest is 'Speedworks' in osborne park. but never heard of them

hmm, still sounds like a pipe has come loose, have had this happen to me a few times in silvia/skyline, exact same issue was due to a pipe coming off turbo, may look like it's on but.. air still may be escaping, doesn't take much when it comes to compressed air :spank:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...