Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've got a R33 non-turbo. I've problems with the gearbox. I can hear a loud crunching noise when shifting from 1st to 2nd. And, also the reverse gear is hard to select. Can i have just these fixed or do I need to recondition the gearbox? And, also at what figure am I looking to get it fixed? Any recommendations highly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219449-gearbox-reconditioning/
Share on other sites

Shell Spirax CX 80w-90 is recommended (by nissan and they recomended it 15 years ag for r33's so do not use is same for castrol with the nulon adjective is not good its not capable of the gearboxes needs the syncro's with get crused

cross reference this with a redline oil and its a smoother oil and you will thank yourself for paying a little bit more :D

I've done some searching because i'll be doing 'box oil soon. A quick search in SAU says Redline Lightweight XXXX (forgot exactly) is the way to go. There's a few different grades, so do some research before you pick one. It's blue coloured.

My gearbox is rough too. It's not cheap ($3000 new box) to either reco OR replace it so try avoid it unless you have lots of cash :thumbsup:

R338OY is right about the oils :thumbsup:

the make of the oil is called redline lightweight shockproof

the grade is up to you depending on the crunch, when you go to the place take a look at the grades they sell in that type of redline try somthing close to a 80w-90 as i see a lot of skyline guys using that grade. Remember winter is coming up too and the crunch may seem worse so give the gearbox about 500-1000km to get the oil through its system (ive read on the forums the guys say the any gearbox oil needs to coat it for a bit)

around what area are you in?

im on the central coast N.S.W and i guy mine from Bursons automotive

again prices range and i see it inbetween $25 and $33 per liter

i dont know how to fill the gts people say pour it down the shifter and others say that dosnt go to your gearbox so look into that.

i have a gts4 so i have to use a handpump to put my gearbox oil in

cheers, Andrew

MELBOURNE — A-car Accessories

Contact Name:

Chris

Phone: 03 9639 8393

Fax: 03 9639 8016

Address:

231 Russell Street

MELBOURNE, 3000, VIC

Email: Pls phone

Speciality: Red Line Oils & Autoparts Retailer

Try there first people to look apparently its slightly cheaper if not you will find bursons stock a good range of redline.

gts4 mayyybe a little different, mine is 3.8

if anything yours will be less but not by much only 200ml

  • 1 month later...

Boys Redline is One of the worst things you can run in your gearbox

Only Mineral oil in the box (for eg. Castrol VMX 80)

redline will only wear out the synco more.

it is only a bandaid fix for maximum 1000km...............

If hear crunching........ that means that you syncros are lazy

meaning a recondition is need..............

I know it should cost About $1000-$1500 from Craft differenitials :D

No its not lol we use redline in all our rebuilt gearboxes in high hp cars like gtr etc,

we swear by the stuff .

it sounds to me more like this guy has a clutch drag or the bush in the crank , as reverse doesnt even have a syncro,

ide be checking the adjustment of your clutch if it engages close to the floor then adjust it so its engages about half way along the pedal stroke, and i reckon that will help it to ,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...