Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

As my username my give away, i drive a R34 gtfour, basically the same deal as the gts4 in the r33. I have plans for this car, but at the moment buddyclub coilovers and gtst brakes(to be installed shortly) are the only upgrades.

I've been driving around on 18x9 Work Meister S2r wheels for the last 2years now and last week i needed new tyres, i dont really have the luxury of having my car not in action atm so i ripped my wheels off (they were on steel belts... oops) and fitted a set of r32 gtr wheels i had and theres a problem, im actually starting to like them....:teehee:

The work miesters are a big rim and two peice forged in design but are meant to be a lightish wieght and with the new tyres i just stuck on it weighs in at 21kg a corner. Now the gtr rims are a forged 16x8 and with the 70% tread left on them weigh in at 15.5kg each. This is going off a bathroom scale so it may not be 100% accurate but it shows a good comparison. Now from what i heard to roughly calculate the rolling diameter weight effect you mutiple it by 4 and thats what its simular to in normal car weight. So by me swapping the wheels over i roughly take the effect of 88kg from my car. Looks wise, i prefer the meister but the gtr rims are growing on me lol

I've been driving with the gtr rims for a week now and the steering is ALOT lighter, and im actually noticed a difference in performance, it seems alot more responsive. The engine is only the stock neo rb25de, so it doesnt have a lot of torque to throw big wheels around but i wasnt expecting a difference like this.

I suppose once the motor gets built, the meisters weight disadvantage will be worth it because i can stick wider tyres on for more traction, but for the time being i'm thinking of leaving the meisters off...

So what do you guys think, to meister or not to meister?

StevesPic014.jpg

StevesPic012.jpg

17052008069.jpg

17052008071.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220080-to-meister-or-not-to-meister/
Share on other sites

I drive an NA gts4 with GTR wheels too.. and its worth going GTR's

I dont like the Meisters at all.. the GTR rim is awesome bang for buck..

It looks so much more different than every other R34 running around! With R32 gtr's its also got more of a performance advantage over the meisters..

90 od kg's in an underpowered NA is a fair bit of weight!..

What sie you goin for meisters?.. Because tyres in 18's are heaps more expensive than 16's.. the diff between 17's and 16's isnt too bad so thats also another positive of the GTRS.. cheaper tyres

Im goin +1 for GTR's..

the work meisters have 245/40 federal 595 tyres just paid 900 for them (i know a bloke in the business), and they are ALOT fatter than the 235 tyres on the gtr rims. On a track the pure width of the work rims will outweigh the gtr rims, but on the street the gtr rims are nicer to live with

Im starting to think crazy thoughts now....

I'm thinking of searching for a set of r34 gtr rims and stick my new tyres from the works on them. Then sell the works as bare rims for what ever i get for them. Is this crazy talk lol??

ALSO, ive searched but i can't find a weight for the r34 gtr rim, has anyone weighed them even on the bathroom scales before? With or without tyres doesnt matter, i just want a rough idea.

:P

one rim has the SMALLEST scratch on the dish, like 1/4 the size of a 5 cent peice, definately not noticeable. These are the "deep" dish version, theres another version that looks simular from a distance but no dish, which looks no where near as good up close. If i was going to sell them i would have to get gtr rims first, but like i said its most likely crazy talk. When i get a spare moment i stick the works back on and take it for a drive.

Also i just realised the pics with the works are with my stock bar, and the gtr rims are with the new nismo bar (i think that may be swaying some voters :)). I'll take another pic with the works in a few day, they are an impressive rim up close, probably just a bit too big for an underpowered skiz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...