Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys not sure if i posted this up in the right place...

Need some help iv got a r33 gtst with a Apexi power FC computer if i was to replace it back with the stock computer

what will i need to do to my car to make it run right and also how much power will it loose I currently have (265rwph)...

Any info would be help thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220521-computer-change-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Hey guys mods a as follows:

Front mount intercooler

T4 turbo not sure how big its rated at

straight through exhaust

Pod Filter

Dual stage TURBOSMART Boost controller with tornado switch in middle console

Driftf adjustable BOV

Fuel system and injectors stock...

Your car will lose signiicant power if the PFC is tuned for those modifications.

Also running the bigger turbo with stock management is a dangerous proposition unless you baby the car everywhere (dont go WOT or take the revves above about 3.5k) as you risk detonation and engine failure. If you put the stock turbo back on the car would run fine (if a little rich).

Why do you want to remove the PFC?

Thanks heaps guys for the quick repleys and help...

Not sure if im 100% gonna remove the Power fc but my brothers mate offered me $1200 for the computer and hand held controller but i'll probably just leave it the way it is cos i do love my car and dont have the money for any engine rebuild lol

Keep in mind if you can sell the PFC for 1200 and get a stock ecu thrown in you can get toshi (search the traders forum for 'toshi') to remap you standard ECU for around $400 which is a very good option. It will be fine for the mods you have (and as its very hard to detect you wont get defected for it) the only downside is the PFC will be better if you want to do many more power mods in the future (bigger turbo, AFM, injectors, etc).

likely the car will run like a bag of shit with the ATMO BOV.

260rwhp is only 190rwkw, which for a turbo like that is a pretty poor result.

I'd expect closer to 300rwhp at least, and 350rwhp with injectors/AFM

So you wouldnt loose much power right power, would be a bit rougher to drive however as tune could have cleaned it up a bit

likely the car will run like a bag of shit with the ATMO BOV.

260rwhp is only 190rwkw, which for a turbo like that is a pretty poor result.

I'd expect closer to 300rwhp at least, and 350rwhp with injectors/AFM

So you wouldnt loose much power right power, would be a bit rougher to drive however as tune could have cleaned it up a bit

I was told that was about the right amount off power for the car as the injectors and fuel setup a still stock...

Also the t4 turbo i have isnt much bigger then the stock turbo, I'm not sure myself im only going on what the previous owner told me.

Its not about right :)

You can take factory injectors to around 220-230rwkw. Every car is different. I made 220rwkw on stock 25 injectors years ago with a T04e, int gated rear.

If its not visibly much bigger than the factory one, then it probably isnt a T04.

Generally a T04 will come with the .7A/R Garrett Comp cover

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...