Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do you just have the actuator or do you have the mounting bracket and the arm?

You said that you are going to use the standard arm but i don;t think that'll work because you need an arm with an internal thread and the factory actuator and arm are 1 piece.

Post up a pic' of the kit.

Here's my actuator setup, it a Garrett item but it's the same as the HKS ones;

Image540-M.jpg

Edited by D_stirls

Its a brand new actuator from nengun

holds the 1bar, being the "heavy duty" hks item

has the actuator top hat and rod, bag of nuts/washers and bottom screw rod for the actuator

plus the mounting bracket and braided rubber hose

the full kit as alan said.

yeah mate I had the $20 bleed valve on there but chucked it for a ebc pretty much when I did the safc install 2yrs ago.

its never held boost properly, last tune went from 14 down to 12's for 180ish kw,

with 1.0 bar + 1.2 bar dialed on the dual stage ebc Im confident now it will be good to go.

the exhaust is flowing well, got good intake and cooling, fueling is ok, got the adjusters to get the tune good, and (secrets out) Im doing a deal atm for a remapped chip + adapter.......

will get the adjusters safc/sitc/fpr/cam-gear all sorted once the ecu is done in around 2 months time, serviced, hope for 200kw+ for sure

:)

im actually hoping for 220rwkw from the auto with the front driveshaft dropped at 17psi

but with the ecu remap, with ecu-chip adapter plate and data from japan, it wont be perfect out of the box, so still limited by the piggybacks.

but meh, not after top power, want perfect acceleration from the awd auto. traffic light GP's are all mine (yeerrrrrr~ lol !)

:)

yeah maybe dean, we'll see what ryan wants to do, if he's up for the drive down south then its all good matey.

when ya getting the last of your pc parts old fella?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...