Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Have a bit of a drama with changing my spark plugs and I have a feeling something extremely bad has happend.

Story goes, last Saturday I bought some new spark plugs (NGK BKR6ES) and tried swapping them around with my old plugs (NGK Iridiums that were put in by Gavin Wood Autotech on the Gold Coast).

I cleaned the area with compressed air and used a cotton bud to take out any extra debris. All was going well until I tried replacing spark plug number 5. It went in easy for the first 3 turns then started to resist being screwed in. I didnt push any further - took the plug out and checked the thread. Nothing was wrong with it. I then looked at the old plug to see if the thread had been damaged on that one - no damage. So I left it for the week.

Came back this afternoon. Had an idea to use some engine oil to lube the thread and see if that screwed in anymore.

Same resistence after the third turn - only when I took the new plug out this time - there was slivers of metal that came out in the new plugs thread :D I then put a cotton bud down the plug hole to see if anything else would come out - a tiny bit more of metal came out :(

Obviously this is a very bad sign. So I'm stopping all work on my car as of now and calling Marty on Monday. I need some opinions from you guys/girls on how serious this may be. For example: Do I need a new head? or is there anyway chance of saving the current head on my engine?

Any helpful comments would be great. Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220670-spark-plug-change-issues/
Share on other sites

hmmm that a bit of a boo boo! i dare say pulling the head off and re-tapping the thread will be the way to fix. few hours involved though. As for new head, i doubt it man its just a matter of cleaning up the thread. im sure your not the first one this has happened 2!

Its hard to say without looking at it, but you wont need to replace the head, just retapping the thread will fix it, the worst that can happen is it may need a helicoil but i doubt it if you stopped when it got too tight.

I had a cross-threaded spark plug in my old VK commodore. One of my work mates at that time was a mechanic and carefully used some thick grease on the tap and any swarf created was caught by the grease.. Well being realistic, the majority of it I guess, no way of really knowing though. TIt was all good after that. Just an alternative that may save you some time. Good Luck

Thanks for you reply black_gtst.

So re-tapping the thread should fix the issue even if it seems like the existing thread is breaking to pieces?

i would doubt the origionl thread would be breaking apart but i guess anything is possable. if you are confident doing it yourself pull head off and take it 2 someone. worst case they will drill it out, put a sleeve in it ans then tap a new thread. a custom engineering place should be able to sort it out for you. as i say bit of stuffing round but prob no need for a new head.

hope this helps you out, im sure someone that has had the same problem will post up!

brett

ye its terrible when something like that happens.at least you were careful etc.it is usual to retap a thread but get someone good to do it so you get a good thread.it might leave some debris in engine from retap so perhaps consider that.dont know what caused it to thread.probably just a bit of wear and tear.i think some times the plugs may vary a bit and it is very unfortunate.

I watched one of the mechanics where i used to work fix a similar issue.

Step one: find the appropriate tap for the thread.

Step two: smother the tap and thread in the head in thick grease.

Step three: gently clean the thread by running the tap through.

Step four: using ear cleaners, clean the thread out and make sure its clean.

He then did something I thought could be useful in all sorts of circumstances.... He had a small vaccum line (like the ones all over the engine bay). He tapped it up to the end of a vaccum cleaner and then proceeded to vaccum the cylinder out...

Step Five: Vaccum the cylinder out!

The car that i watched it on went fine... and the plug threaded in nice and easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...