Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in a spot of bother!

my immobiliser in my commonwhore is ****ed, i tried to override it with the pin but with no luck

i was wondering if anyone in this forum knows how to disconnect an immobiliser so i can at least drive my car and get another one fitted

any advice or help would be greatly appreciated

its a cyclops unit if that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22107-disconnecting-immobiliser/
Share on other sites

With a dynatron/cyclops brand it's pretty easy, but involves re-wiring under the dash. Usually they cut off BOTH ignition wires with relays...

You'll see something like this:

Car Ign+ --> Relay --> Wiring harness

Car Ign- --> Relay --> Wiring harness

|

|

Immobiliser Unit

Connect the Ign+, and Ign-, back into the wiring harness, bypassing the relays.. May take some rooting around, but it's not impossible...

Hope that helps :P

usually immob are in series with 2 circuits under the dash - u should be able to see where ignition wires (thick) have been cut and the immob wires (thin) soldered in series with them

desolder the immob wires and just connect the original wiring back together

speaking of vk's there are too many similar shitheaps thrashing around the streets of warwick - i know coz i live there ;)

here is an easier option.. usually works easier if you have a manual though...

If you have a 'cheaper' varient of the cyclone immobilisers, then this should get ya going.. turn the ignition to 'on' and leave the car there for approximately 35-50 minutes, if you have an electric fan, disconnect it, unless you have a manual which you can push start when your battery dies. Thats why this is easier with a manual. Go to the car after 40ish minutes and try turn the key, if it doesnt work, wait another 20 mins, if that doesnt work.. then im stumped ;) you have to go cutting :)

I KNOW and have seen this work to alot of cars, this works on stock vt commos as well.

Originally posted by NuGGeT

hmm its amazing if you can disconnect your own immobiliser imagine what car theives can do?!!? hahha thats scary if people on this forum can tell u how to get rid of ya immobiliser

hahaha

to get rid of your alarm, all you do, is lie down under the bonnet, reach up, pull the bonnet cable, bonnet pops up, alarm goes mental, rip the siren out.. and then the alarm is useless :)

Originally posted by hako

speaking of vk's there are too many similar shitheaps thrashing around the streets of warwick - i know coz i live there :D

mate my car ain't a shitheap

although it ain't a skyline it is good for the money i paid

i managed to find a way to trip the alarm so i could use my car. :thumbsup:

now to get down to business and work out a budget so i can get my R32 GTR.....better be ready ONYX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...