Removing turbo on R33: How to.

[JimX]

A few weeks ago I had to figure out how to remove my turbo. Thanks to the help of people on here I managed to do it relatively painlessly. So I thought I would put up what I did on my car a few weeks ago in a brief how-to for anyone's that's interested in removing their own turbo.

I decided to put it in here instead of Forced Induction Performance because it doesn't really have anything to do with performance unless you're upgrading or something. I did it myself as a maintenance procedure to repair the wastegate so I think it should be here.

Some of you might notice that I had this up on the Overclockers motoring forum, but I decided to pull it out because that forum is too full of tards. (any other ocau'ers please note: this is not a slight against ocau at all, Agg is a good friend of mine).

I didn't do this exactly as listed, because I tried some things and found they were too difficult and so attempted to get in other ways (eg, at first I tried doing everything from the top through the engine bay). This is how I ended up doing everything as best as I can remember it (apoligies for omissions and errors, if you find any please let me know and I'll fix it up).

This all applies directly to an R33 Skyline with a turbo in the factory spot with the water cooling lines installed. I suspect most factory turbo cars would be similar, but make note of any obvious differences between your car and an R33 before going ahead.

Start

1. Put your car in a secure garage or other covered workspace where you can leave it for at least a few days (this is assuming you will be sending your turbo off for inspection/repair).

2. Put the car up onto some wheel stands or ramps, to give yourself easy access to under the car.

3. With the engine COLD or at most, MODERATELY WARM (you really don't wanna burn yourself), remove the intake piping from the front of the turbo and move it out of the way.

Actually I'll just stop right here for a moment. If you want to simply check your bearings for play, just do step 3 without jacking the car up. Once you have exposed the compressor wheel, spin it with your fingers. It should rotate freely without any stickiness.

Push it inwards and outwards to check for axial play, it shouldn't move at all. If it moves even slightly, it needs a rebuild or will need one soon. Move it side to side, it should move very slightly (maybe not at all if a ball bearing turbo, not sure). It should not touch the turbo housing.

4. Remove the wastegate actuator (it gets in the way when removing/replacing the turbo). It's held in place with 2 mounting bolts and a spring clip on the wastegate pivot. The actuator is a round thing with a rod coming out the back. My car has an electronic boost controller which has a vacuum line up to the actuator which also needs to be removed. I'm not sure what cars without EBC's have to control the boost.

5. Put a large drip tray underneath the general area of the turbo. This is for catching coolant only, you won't lose very much oil at all on an R33. Some rags will take care of the small oil loss. The coolant will dribble down lots of places, so be prepared to shift the tray around for the best spot.

6. From the engine bay side, undo the oil and coolant line bolts. The oil line is small small bolts holding a metal jacket onto the top of the turbo, the coolant bolt is large and holds a round coolant terminal onto the side. There are brass washers that you need to be mindful of on the coolant lines, they are very easy to let drop onto the ground. One washer goes either side of the round coolant terminal for when you replace them.

7. From the underside of the car, undo the bolts for the same lines on the other side. The coolant line is on the engine block side, the oil line is underneath. I found the best position to reach was from behind the front crossmember.

8. Move the lines out of the way as best you can, being careful not to pinch or bend the metal.

9. Undo the 4 bolts holding the turbo onto the dump pipe (exhaust). Be careful not to lose the nuts, washers, and gaskets. Especially be wary of something falling down the exhaust, you really don't want to have to fish it out again!

10. Undo the 4 bolts holding the turbo's exhaust housing onto the exhaust manifold of the engine. Be careful not to lose gaskets, nuts, etc.

11. Carefully pull the turbo off and up out of the engine bay. You have to wriggle it around lots, to get it off both the exhaust and manifold, because there are 2 sets of studs on each keeping it in place.

12. If you need the wastegate actuator inspected/repaired as well as your turbo, now is a good time to put it back on.

[2fardown]

Thanks for that Jimx. Much appreciated.

[ix9]

another thumbs up JimX, helped me a lot!

[rb25]

Thanks heaps Jim

[benm]

Good stuff JimX,

We really need a "DIY:" section hey...

[Guest RedLineGTR]

thanks for that.

[JimX]

I'm glad it's been helpful If anyone is confused about anything I've written just let me know and I'll try to clarify.

[mulldog33]

good work bro