Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by hippy

i was being sarcastic ... but its like at least a week wait or something like that isn't it? maybe they treat girls better ..

I know u were being sarcastic!! I've always called them and they've told me to bring it down the next day. I doubt they treat girls better, I reckon they thought they could pull the wool over my eyes when I dealt with them.

Guest Miss_Nismo
Originally posted by EnricoPalazzo

MattR: Firstly this is not a RUMOUR as Martin told me himself. I was only replyin to Steves question. Thats my 2c

I think what matt is saying is that it is no-one elses business why martin left and you probably shouldn't make it public.

Sorry I asked the question, thought it was reasonable one, but I didnt want to start upsetting people:(

Appologies to all, just makes me start asking questions when someone moves on. I had my car tuned by martin, and I was quite happy with it.

But when it comes to tuning a car, usually the owner of the car gets to foot the bill if it all goes wrong, so I am very, very cautious.

Best to go with turbo tune if they offer a warranty:) I dont mind loosing a few kw as long as reliability is retained.

By the way, MattR, your car seems to be going alright, have you had any probs so far (with the tune) and who would you recommend?

There are a few guys around that would be perfectly OK and tune your car professionally. I think John at TT might be limited with the ECUs he deals with, i.e. Autronic only, might be wrong though.

I agree with Clint32 that you can't expect a tuner to give a garantee.

Jase, since yours is a 32, keeping the stock ECU and do a retune is an option, then your choice is limited re tuners, I think Martin @ Morpowa is the only guy in town that an do it...again correct me if I'm wrong there.

If you want to go aftermarket ECU, and therefore best for later engine upgrades, due to the 6 x throttle issue, MAP sensor ECUs have trouble with light load stuff, so keeping the MAFs is best, so Power FC or Motec is all that can be used with MAFs. Plenty of guys can tune with them, Martin (Morpowa), Shaun (RPM), Mildren, Tilbrooks (maybe not Motec), D1 Garage.

Ive tried to keep out of this one as long as possible, but will respond now.

1) Firstly, I dont have a lot of hair...so I dont have bad hair days. I am sure you may have taken that comment out of context

2) Mick Stanics high quality work speaks for itself. TRY09s was a good example of that. My differences with him are purely philosophical

3) Using Morpowas dyno facility has been fantastic. They are great guys, professional, and have leading edge equipment. Top marks.

4) Mark Tilbrook is a great bloke. We go back many years. Ive seen him perform absolute miracles. Top mechanic, and knows Skylines extremely well.

5) If anybody else here can 'real time' tune a standard Skyline management system for fuel/spark/boost cut/speed cut/rev cut, I would be interested to know

6) Tweaking a crank angle sensor, fuel pressure, and plug gap doesnt constitute tuning an engine

Just shortened it a bit to make my points clearer

I am sure you may have taken that comment out of context

The quote wasn't taken out of context, he didn't appear to happy with you back then.

It was when you had just left, so maybe the bad blood has now passed between you two?!?

Sh*t happens I guess. :D

:burnout:

Car is in with John at TT, found out about his warranties, basically if he can lock the ecu (eg motec, autronic) he will give a warranty, otherwise no.

Bit bizarre, I got quoted 'about $300' for the tune (by John), when I took the car in another guy said could be $500-$700 'cos power fcs can take sooo long to do?. I dont mind paying for a good tune, and I got told less than $300 by a couple of other places, but if it is that much, I dont think I will be back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
×
×
  • Create New...