Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI ALL

was going to paint my rocker covers and coilpack covers and the cam cover

just wondering if i need to use a heat proof paint for the plastic cam and coilpack covers or will just normal auto paint do the trick as i want to do it the same colour i have on my dash.. i know i need the heat proof paint for the rocker covers.. just wasn't sure about the plastic..

has anyone done these in auto paint?, any issues?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221513-painting-the-coilpack-cover/
Share on other sites

Ive heard its fine, but I wouldnt trust it for longevity.. Id say spray heatproof down, spray your colour ontop (sand smooth first tho) and then clear coat with heatproof then id doubt you would have an issue.

For the plastic might as well do the same but either way will be fine.

You can buy the heat proof paint at auto barn for like $12.

It can take up to like 650 degree C or whatever... Ppl paint exhaust mainfolds with them and it will be fine to paint you rocker cover.

Clean down the surface / sand down and apply the paint.

SAU member RSPEC painted his rocker cover and then I went and painted my Inlet Plenum. Looks nice.

Id say spray heatproof down, spray your colour ontop (sand smooth first tho) and then clear coat with heatproof then id doubt you would have an issue.

For the plastic might as well do the same but either way will be fine.

Thanks decim8 i'll give it a go doing it that way sounds pretty logical having the colour in a heat proof coating, basically. :D

Cheers

He was asking if he could use normal acrylic paint/spray auto paint on rocker covers. Thats what Ill be doing.

And secondly I can mod them for you.. Dont know how much it would cost, nor what it would end up as but if your keen to be a trial im sure we can work out a super low cost. I just remembered Perspex will bend with heat to much, might have to look into some other option.

This bending is sometimes useful as I can create shapes with the perspex such as a large bubble down the middle, takes abit of effort tho

Edited by DECIM8

mate seriously, what is the thing in your engine bay that makes all the heat?

your engine..

if you want the paint to stay where it is for more than a week

spray it with heat proof primer at least

theres a picture of my engine in my for sale thread

the high temp paint isnt much more expensive

I've powder-coated mine in the GTR and couldn't be happier with the way they have turned out.. Just thought this might be an option to "painting" them. Powder -coat is good for higher temps also.

Cheers,

Adrian

I've powder-coated mine in the GTR and couldn't be happier with the way they have turned out.. Just thought this might be an option to "painting" them. Powder -coat is good for higher temps also.

Cheers,

Adrian

unfortunately the valley cover on teh RB25det's are plastic and cant be coated. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...