Jump to content
SAU Community

Tuning Your Car

mlyf16

By mlyf16,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted

I believe the LM-01 has the ability to simulate narrow band outputs. You could do that. However, Most wide band do not like excessive heat, unlike their narrow band brothers, and can foul up easily. I would suggest that you weld in a second O2 bung midway between the turbo and the cat. This way you will not get incorrect readings from the sensor getting too hot, and falling out of calibration, nor will you get a delayed readout from having a sniffer tube up the exhaust pipe.

Recalibration of the wideband sensors can be done by yourself, but it is time consuming. They are something that you use for tuning, etc and remove as the sensors can be damaged if they are used continually like the narrowbands.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221767-tuning-your-car/#findComment-3909692
Share on other sites
ziad Community Regular

ziad

Posted
Posted

evo DIY tuning FTW :D i have an innovate LC-1 no

put the sensor about 1 meter from the turbo but before the cat (as the cat will change the reading slightly).

a bung will need to be welded to put the sensor, and it has to be between 10 and 2 O clock position.

recalibration takes about 1-2 mins... but best to pull the sensor out of the exhaust so that it calibrates from clean air, taking the sensor out will take longer as you may need to jack the car up. recalibration only needs to be done approx 2 times a year at the max, for a turbo daily driven car.

keep the sensor powered all the times the car is running.

on a cold/humid morning do not keep the ign (sensor powered) while the car is not running.

once installed and as long as you obey the above instructions the sensor can last for a couple of years without problem in a daily driven car.

buy one from the states, due to aussie dollar it should cost about $250-300 to get one delivered.... depending on dyno prices it might just be cheaper to get proper dyno time than an LC1. unless you are inclined to fiddle a lot. plus the sensors are a little fragile and can die.

EDIT: just found that the LM1 will be supersceeded by LM2 so currently you can pickup a new LM1 for $280USD plus postage.

http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp?prod=IN-3723

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221767-tuning-your-car/#findComment-3913537
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...