Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Battery Keeps Dying Out

sxc_skylinee

By sxc_skylinee,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

sxc_skylinee Contributor

sxc_skylinee

Posted
Posted

i have had my skyline r33 for about 10months now n since i never had any problems with my battery and my sound system, but about 4weeks ago it started to die out so i bought a new battery, which has 2yr warranty. but within few hrs after driving the car wont start... either the alternator wont charge the battery or the my sound system has drain the battery fast!!

i also did some experiment with the amp, when i unplugged the amp from the battery the car has enough power to start but when its plugged it has to b jumped started. does this mean the amp is taking to much power? or the battery is dead? i drive around 20-50kms a day wouldnt that charge the battery enough?

and also every morning when im about to go to work the battery is dead again! so i have to jump start it again!

what seems to be the problem? alternator wont charge? loose cable? the amp? or dodgy wiring on the sound system?

plz help guys :P, thanks

I

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221980-car-battery-keeps-dying-out/
Share on other sites
central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

get a volts meter

my mechanic lives like 4 houses up from me so im lucky but he puts the volts meter on the lugs (when my battery was bothering me) and it will tell you the current the alternator is feeding

all you have to do is have to car running and know your readings on the volts meter to read the alternator

if its not that go to supercheap and they do a battery test for free

i know its a long shot but if its a bosch battery i sware 1 in 20 of them are screwed from scratch

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

black gtst has my problem

my amp has a switch too ill the power when the car is off but it still sucks the power so i pull my fuse out everytime the car is turned off for more than 3 days

SLY034 Contributor

SLY034

Posted
Posted
i have had my skyline r33 for about 10months now n since i never had any problems with my battery and my sound system, but about 4weeks ago it started to die out so i bought a new battery, which has 2yr warranty. but within few hrs after driving the car wont start... either the alternator wont charge the battery or the my sound system has drain the battery fast!!

i also did some experiment with the amp, when i unplugged the amp from the battery the car has enough power to start but when its plugged it has to b jumped started. does this mean the amp is taking to much power? or the battery is dead? i drive around 20-50kms a day wouldnt that charge the battery enough?

and also every morning when im about to go to work the battery is dead again! so i have to jump start it again!

what seems to be the problem? alternator wont charge? loose cable? the amp? or dodgy wiring on the sound system?

plz help guys :P , thanks

I

This could mean a few of things.

Either your alternator is on its way out and not maintaining the batt (An alternator only surface charges a battery and does not charge a very low battery to its maximum) or

Above + a battery that has been sitting around in a shop can and will loose charge if not maintained. Installing in a car with a faulty alternator will produce your fault.

You may have a problem with your amplifier drawing too much current due to a fault (I have seen this on an amp before)

Check the voltage across the batt terminals while running. If it checks out 13.9V - 14.7V, disconnect the amp from the battery and take your car for a really good run and see how it goes starting the next morning. If it does start, try your sound system next.

There could be another fault causing this but that's where i would look first.

doxximus Grand Master

doxximus

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem, currently going to replace my old (from 2001) head unit, and get someone to rip out my amp and rewire everything properly.

my mech got his auto elec to check it out and yes, it was the stereo/amp that was draining new batteries after a week.

  • 1 year later...
spudsr33 Enthusiast

spudsr33

Posted
Posted

Huh i currently have the same problem aswell but it only started after i put in an aftermarket piggy back comp for the car! It ran like crap when i put it in so i took it out and since then i loose my battery over night!!! Now i did a few simple tests and have found out (so far) that my car is actually running a positive charge from the ground in the boot to the negative terminal!!!!!!!!! FU**S me as to how that works but a few people have told me that it could be a stuck solanoid somewhere or even a realy bad earth first place to look is the cars cigarette lighter as that is one of the biggest current drawers in it!

I disconected my amps and stereo and upgradded my earthing strap and it seems to be doing the trick so here hopes all is good!!!! :P

Jack88 Experienced

Jack88

Posted
Posted
Huh i currently have the same problem aswell but it only started after i put in an aftermarket piggy back comp for the car! It ran like crap when i put it in so i took it out and since then i loose my battery over night!!! Now i did a few simple tests and have found out (so far) that my car is actually running a positive charge from the ground in the boot to the negative terminal!!!!!!!!! FU**S me as to how that works but a few people have told me that it could be a stuck solanoid somewhere or even a realy bad earth first place to look is the cars cigarette lighter as that is one of the biggest current drawers in it!

I disconected my amps and stereo and upgradded my earthing strap and it seems to be doing the trick so here hopes all is good!!!! :thumbsup:

If this was the case it would have started an electrical fire. or it would have fried most of the electricals in the car and it simple would not run or do much at all.

A really bad earth will not drain your battery at all.

A stuck soleniod? in what? you can rule that out as causing your dead battery.

You probly had an issue with your stereo drawing to much current while off too.

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted

To check your battery,

You'll need a mult-meter. These checks are all taken at the battery terminals.

1. check the static voltage (no load) should be between 12.5 - 12.8 volts

2. check under load (cranking) should not drop under 9v

3. check Alt while charging (running) should be 13.6 to 14.3 volts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...