Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

are your wheels done up tight?

sadly though this often happens with spacers. the best best is just buy the correct offset wheel and bin the spacers.

spiggots/hub rings will cure that problem, spacers are great for increasing track but bad for this problem and a few others.

you can screw them till the studs break it wont cure the problem, and no a wheel alignment wont help either.

if your im melb give me a buz/pm i can make them up for you ....

sometimes you have to get them made up.

yes some tyre places will have them, but make sure they are a tight fit, there should be no movement when the wheel is on, NO movement other wise you will have the same problem again.

bryyy- your one of the lucky ones :)

Edited by robbieraver

it should do. sorry I just assumed your bolt on spacers have that little 'lip' in the middle to locate the wheel. if not then that is almost certainly why you are having these problems as it's pretty hard to locate the wheel dead centre without the hub ring on the spacer.

if it doesn't look like this, it's not good.

20mm-hub-spacer.jpg

but they do make the wheels stick out a LOT so if your already filling out your guards.........

if your wheel is a standard ID then you can buy off the shelf spiggots for like 20 schmux

i needed custom cause ssr professor sp1's have a weirdo 79mm ID :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...