Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey buddy, adjust your attitude on this forum from here on in, or you will be banned.

u got ppl in this thread posting nothing but bs, im actually giving proper advice, sure i put a f*k here and there but cant u see why? man u wonder why SAU has repeating threads, cuz mods like u ban the wrong ppl.

f*k this is high school all over again hahaha :D

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes, correct - one of the circular ring clamp bits hadnt been put on "straight" and that is where it blew off from. However, I'm still curious, would that constant pressure from not having a bov eventually damage the turbo?

He's referring to your abuse and language towards other members not your information... lol

maybe it wasnt obvious enough but my "abuse and language" is caused by other members posting bs.

meh watever.... :P

i originally had my bov blocked, found out the bov was stuck shut, i got another bov atmo) and found that my car run better with it blocked off. maybe my car was tuned with it blocked, that i am unsure of. my next step would probably be a plumb back bov.

also the sound of your bov blocked will depend on what mods you have, i have read on the forum that a pod filter and frontmount or big cooler will make the flutter noise louder. i have both a front mount and a HKS pod filter (suppose to make flutter loudest out of the filters) and the flutter noise is quite loud.

also i might add that the flutter noise is caused by air coming back through the turbo (getting chopped up) and comming back through the pod/filter.

many people will say that it will not harm your turbo as they run their cars like it for long periods, others will say it will damage turbo but i guess its just one of those things.

also you could probably get yourself a adjustable bov that has plumback option and atmo. so if you dont like the way it runs with atmo, you can plumb it, or you can tighteen the neck right up (turbosmart bov) which will tighteen the spring inside it and make it the same as it being blocked off anyway.

cheers

If your running an AFM, with a blocked off bov, it WILL idle worse and stall under heavy braking (due to extra vacuum).. not fun.
Actually, I didnt have a BOV fitted to my new forward facing plenum / intercooler piping - I put my foot down around the corner from the garage and my I/C piping blew off!

So im thinking if my piping hadn't blown of under pressure, surely it would hurt the turbo in the long run?

FWIW.. my turbo cefiro did not come with any bov out of the factory. I have no idea why but thats what all cefiro rb20's are like.. My car does idle fine, My car does not stall because of this hektik extra vacuum under braking. I'm fair over reading this crap from people claiming they know everything, yet they really have no idea what they're on about. Just listen to R34NRG and be done with it

  • 2 weeks later...

I made up a block off plate on my R33. Only stalling problems i could report was if you gave it a decent hit of Boost then put foot on clutch and didnt release clutch. So basically. it would only stall if i wanted it to. However I removed the plate because it was making the car run rough and it would pop and bang a lot more.

Very Easy thing to make. Give it a go. If your not happy it takes all of a couple of minutes to take out.

Luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...