Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: 1991 Twin Turbo Soarer x 2

Location: Gold Coast

Website: Your on it

Item Condition: Good

Reason for Selling: Finished project.... next please

Price and Payment Conditions: $12500 for both cars or swap the black soarer alone but i have to sell the green one dont mind swap for both cars with $2500 with cash adjust no less though as the green car belongs partly to my best friend and i must pay him out if going to sell cheers all.

Black soarer - $10000ono

Green Soarer - $4000ono

Black Soarer: Ok so i got this got this car a while ago as a unfinshed project from another boost member and have basically put the finishing touches to it. I have had the car repainted and the Bn kit properly fitted and painted. Also had all the power steering lines replaced and full service carried out. All the usual soarer problem electrics have been fixed also. Please note all work has been carried out by professional reputable workshops around the Gold coast area and i can provide receipts for work carried out.

Now the car is stock mechanically save for a Turbosmart Type 2 Bov and Turbosmart Dual Stage boost controller. Please note car has 140,000km's on the clock. The car also features a Full BN body kit, 18x8 chromes with Bridgestone Potenzas all round, Clarion usb headunit with remote, a kenwood 4 channel amp, Matched front and rear pioneer speakers and a kenwood 1500w sub in a box, Sun-roof, Missle switch on board for 2nd Stage boost, Neons in boot, Leather dash and doors no cracks or damage, Boost Gauge and new carpets. Car has rego till Oct. If i have missed anything i will update alternativly if you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask me cheers all.

Green Soarer - More of a complete parts or drift car, its complied and can be registred. It in ok nick panels are straight paint has some flaws. Roughly 200,000 on clock i think its in storage will check soon. Interior is okish its all there though just stains really. Motor starts and runs car cant be driven due to flat tire. In short i wouldnt say buy it and drive away with no problems rather it does run but needs work, or just use it as a parts or drift car which was what i was going to do. Strip it out manualise it nice cheap 1jz drift car.

Pictures: are <---- there

Contact Details: Post, Pm or 0415 560 620 ill get back to you asap

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222766-2-x-twin-turbo-soarers/
Share on other sites

Hey bro how you been. Neat lookin ride there. Should be drivin the line again this week so should catch up. You could always flick me quite a few g's and i may swap:P



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...