Jump to content
SAU Community

Does A Heavy Duty Cltuch = Heavier Clutch Pedal?

r32woohoo
 Share

Recommended Posts

r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
Posted

Hi all, just got a new clutch put in.

Its supposed to be a heavy duty kit so i guess that would mean a higher clamp load

But the pedal is lighter then it was with the stock clutch

So now i'm confused because i'm under the impression that heavier clamp means heavier pedal

I have a suspicion that im wrong so can anyone confirm that i am?

Scottydoo Community Regular

Scottydoo

Posted
Posted

No a heavy duty clutch just means there's more 'meat' to wear off. You pressure plate is what changes the clamping power of the clutch and therefore pressure of the pedal. The pedal will still feel the same

Correct me if i'm wrong anyone

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
No a heavy duty clutch just means there's more 'meat' to wear off. You pressure plate is what changes the clamping power of the clutch and therefore pressure of the pedal. The pedal will still feel the same

Correct me if i'm wrong anyone

100% wrong mate.

A heavy duty clutch can mean various things

- more aggressive clutch material

- high clamp load

- etc

But due to new technologies, H/D clutches no longer mean heavy clutch pedal. If fact you have to specially order a clutch if you want that heavy clutch pedal feeling, from most good brands anyway.

Is the clutch more "bitey" than the std clutch you had?

Are you able to "ride" it as much?

Scottydoo Community Regular

Scottydoo

Posted
Posted
100% wrong mate.

A heavy duty clutch can mean various things

- more aggressive clutch material

- high clamp load

- etc

But due to new technologies, H/D clutches no longer mean heavy clutch pedal. If fact you have to specially order a clutch if you want that heavy clutch pedal feeling, from most good brands anyway.

Is the clutch more "bitey" than the std clutch you had?

Are you able to "ride" it as much?

Ok sweet thanks for the info, I've never looked it up or had it explained to me. That was just my understanding and was obviously wrong. Was just going off my experience, in my old rx7 i put a heavy duty clutch in cause my stocker was slipping but the new one felt exactly the same and still slipped anyway....brass button after that!...even that was pretty light under foot, but never, ever slipped :(

Gtrgodzilla67 Community Regular

Gtrgodzilla67

Posted
Posted
100% wrong mate.

A heavy duty clutch can mean various things

- more aggressive clutch material

- high clamp load

- etc

But due to new technologies, H/D clutches no longer mean heavy clutch pedal. If fact you have to specially order a clutch if you want that heavy clutch pedal feeling, from most good brands anyway.

Is the clutch more "bitey" than the std clutch you had?

Are you able to "ride" it as much?

good call but i got some to add

Also the pivot points on the fingers of the pressure plate can also make it lighter . well actually this infact sets how heavy the clutch will be. less pivot on the fingers (pivot ring toward inner on pressure plate fingers will make it heavy,) a heavy duty clutch will have more clamping force but your thrust bearing might have been low on grease etc adding to the heavy clutch,

i have a heavy duty clutch holdin 340 rwkw and its as light as a feather but in saying that i had it alterd, and i added a bigger slave,

cheers.

r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
100% wrong mate.

A heavy duty clutch can mean various things

- more aggressive clutch material

- high clamp load

- etc

But due to new technologies, H/D clutches no longer mean heavy clutch pedal. If fact you have to specially order a clutch if you want that heavy clutch pedal feeling, from most good brands anyway.

Is the clutch more "bitey" than the std clutch you had?

Are you able to "ride" it as much?

The new clutch definitely has more bite in it, but my old one was down to nearly bare metal so yeh.

I can ride it just like the std one i suppose, haven't really tried coz i'm still wearing it in

The take up is closer to the floor now and its alot easier to take off since i got a lightweight flywheel put in as well

Basically let the clutch out and throttle at the same time and off you go

I guess i won't know if it will hold the power until i give it a bit of abuse, i'm just trying to get my head around the softer pedal

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
good call but i got some to add

Also the pivot points on the fingers of the pressure plate can also make it lighter . well actually this infact sets how heavy the clutch will be. less pivot on the fingers (pivot ring toward inner on pressure plate fingers will make it heavy,) a heavy duty clutch will have more clamping force but your thrust bearing might have been low on grease etc adding to the heavy clutch,

i have a heavy duty clutch holdin 340 rwkw and its as light as a feather but in saying that i had it alterd, and i added a bigger slave,

cheers.

GREAT POINT!! Spot on.

Not sure how i forgot that.

I had a twin plate Exedy clutch, that had a very light pedal feel but was way too bitey and overkill for my stockish set-up. After a year or so i got fed up with all the stalling and sold it to a mate that was making more power, at the time. When installed in my car, my mechanic fitted a smaller "pivot ring" to match the clutch. When i sold the clutch to my mate, i did not know this or had the pivot ring and he just fitted the std size ring, this made the clutch pedal at least 2.5 heavier. Luckily for me a friend drove my car with the same clutch and then drove his and commented how damn heavy the clutch felt in his car.

A smaller pivot ring pushes the pressure plate fingers closer towards the middle, closer to the edge of the fingers.

r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well thats good to know for next time I change the clutch.

I don't think my mechanic would have changed something like that without mentioning it to me so I guess it has no bearing on my situation

So all i can really do is give it some grief and see if it holds?

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
it depends on your clamp load on the pressure plate..

my HD feels so much light to another HD in another car..

so yeh

But clamp load only effects pedal feel slightly, the pivot point is really the main factor. But there has also been great developments in making heavy duty clutches have a lighter pedal feel, yet have a larger clamp load.

PS: A lighter flywheel actually makes it harder to take off. After my Excedy twin i purchased an Xtreme single H/D and a light weight flywheel, another mate also bought the same clutch after driving mine, but kept the std flywheel; his was easier to drive.

My Xtreme H/D held 275rwkw without slip; after 1.5yrs use (weekend car), 1 drag day (6,300rpm launches on drag slicks), a few motorkhanas, dyno days and club cruises it only wore 0.4mm from new (7.8mm). I have only recently upgraded to a Nismo twin plate as i have just built a well spec'ed rb30det and plan to do alot more motorsport. The Nismo Super Coppermix is an awesome clutch, the most comfortable one i have driven to date and is the most strongest (HP rating) one i have owned.

r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I know in theory a lightweight flywheel is supposed to make it harder to take off but for some reason mine is just as easy to take off with, if not easier then with the standard gear.

I never felt the flywheel before it was put in though so it might not be a super light one

Edited by r32woohoo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...