Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when drifting and trying to bring the radius of your turn down a bit sometimes you need to bounce it....

mine is set to 7400 and has been there a number of times... never missed a beat... and yes... 25's are cheap enough :)

the idea of rev limiters and tachometer shift lights go hand in hand, when you change gears you want the engine rpm to fall back right into the middle of the power/torque area when the motor is just at its peak power levels...(where the hp and trq curves meet/intersect or are closest to each other...within reason of course)

Doesn't work like that. You only want to change when the torque in the rpm range that you will be in in the next gear multiplied by the next gears ratio is higher than the current torque you are making in the current gear.

My SR for example dies off at the top, but at 7000rpm in 2nd gear I'm still making more torque at the wheels than I would be at 4800rpm in 3rd. so I change as late as possible if I'm edging every bit out of it.

my avcr says that mine goes to 7500 quite often, is there an easy way to to remove the limiter, the sooner i blow this engine the sooner i get my arse into gear and build my self a big banger.

Shift into 2nd gear while doing 180km/h should give you an epic failure.

but i still want the rest of the car in one piece.

drive it without any oil lol :) you'll be amazed how long it lasts lol

i need to have some reusable bits left over, like the block.

Doesn't work like that. You only want to change when the torque in the rpm range that you will be in in the next gear multiplied by the next gears ratio is higher than the current torque you are making in the current gear.

+1 for this.

Re: rev limit, i'd say stick the stock rev limit if you've got a stock bottom end. If you stay off the limiter and have a good tune it should last a long time. Anything higher than that and the risk of damage increases. And its not a linear increase either - IIRC its a square increase, ie the stress at 6000rpm is four times the stress at 3000rpm, not double as you might suspect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...