Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That sounds like a complicated thing for the small switch next to the passenger window locker on the driver's door.

Anyway, this switch. I want to change the wiring so that it only works when the ignition is on accessory or "on". ie, so it won't work with the key out. Just as a small anti-theft precaution (I know it's not much but every bit helps).

Does anyone know how I can change the wiring to do this? I had a quick look yesterday when I had my door trim off, but I wasn't really sure what I should be doing. I found one wire with +12v on it with the ignition off, which I presume is the door unlocker. But I didn't want to go cutting wires and soldering them without a better idea of what I should be doing.

I'm pretty sure if you cut the only +12v wire with the ignition off it will disable it. There is only one wire where with voltage with the ignition off, and there are no other switches in that cluster that do anything with the ignition off.

From memory it was the thin green wire (most are thicker), but check with your multimeter before cutting. Good luck with it.

Hrm. Complicated but.

You could get a hold of an Acc +12v line from somewhere (back of the cigarette lighter is the easiest place to find this on my R33) and run that to the always on +12v.

The thing is tho i think that this would result in non-functional central locking. Especially if you use remote keyless entry.

So in that case you could run the Accessory +12v to the inside of the door and using a small 12v relay wire it up so that the door lock/unlock switch is only part of the circuit when the Accessory +12v wire is hot.

It works in my head. :)

Sewid, that sounds like a good idea. I'll have to find a spot for a relay now, and figure out where to run the wire from/to. Actually, if I wire it up as you suggest, I should be able to take the +12v from one of the power window wires in the same cluster.

Edit: No that wouldn't work, that would just wind my window down whenever the relay was engaged I think :thumbsup:

Originally posted by JimX

Sewid, that sounds like a good idea. I'll have to find a spot for a relay now, and figure out where to run the wire from/to. Actually, if I wire it up as you suggest, I should be able to take the +12v from one of the power window wires in the same cluster.

Edit: No that wouldn't work, that would just wind my window down whenever the relay was engaged I think :thumbsup:

No actually u are spot on. Inside the door, you will have this:

+12v for power windows ----> window switch ----> window motor

All you need to do is jack into the +12v before the power window switch. You need to wire that to the coil side of a relay. Then wire the other side of the relay to the door lock/unlock switch circuit.

This becomes more complicated if you use one of those alarm power window interfaces which auto wind the power windows but is still doable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...