Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Skyline enthusiasts and gurus alike.

I have the following problem (I'm pretty sure it's a problem). When I take off from a standing position, a loud and noticeable "click" comes from the rear of my car. It also does it when reversing, and braking 80% of the time. It's got me stumped. To be honest, I'm not a skyline expert, I've owned my car for over a week now. I'm pretty sure this is not normal. :domokun:

Tonight i took it into the garage under some light, and jacked up the rear of the car and spun both tyres with my hand. I heard no noise.

I then started the car up and while the back was raised, I accelerated slowly in 1st, then changed to 2nd. Still no click. Tried it in reverse as well. I still can't find the click.

I went under the car and did a half assed inspection. Moving majority of the bits underneath the car for any immenent sound. Still no luck. :O

Has any one had this problem before? Do some skylines do it from wear and tear, or is it an aftermarket component that was put on that makes the sound? I'd appreciate any help.

cheers!

-Ang

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223888-a-click-sound-coming-from-the-rear/
Share on other sites

excuse me, just noticed a couple of other posts of a similar nature posted here... i apologise

I'm thinking worn rear driveshaft. Or maybe a bush? wouldn't hurt to get them both replaced even if they dont need to be done.. 100,000 k's service coming up soon.

Edited by SinistR33

I rang up a CV joint, they reckon it's not a CV. Because if it was it'll make a continuous clicking sound. So I rang up Pedders and i'm getting a suspension check tomorrow.

It might be a bush. I have just had my front bush's replaced because they were worn, so the back being worn sounds about right.

That, or maybe a driveshaft/ uni fault.. we'll find out soon enough.

I assume the first thing you did was inspect your tyres to make sure you haven't picked up anything?

No i didn't actually. But I might do that. But the way I see it, if something was picked up by the tyre, then there would be a continuous noise. I tailshaft, or suspension sounds about right.. And maybe CV's, even though apparently the cv's will make a constant noise, but you'd never know.

- Ang

you'd think so but no.....you only notice it when taking off or slowing...could be because at speed the sound will change from a click to a continuous noise and just blends into the drone/road noise with everything else.

Never know your luck.

Yeah, thumb tack, nail anything that shouldn't be there.

If you jack the car up and rotate the wheels just rub your hand over the tread surface and check nothings sticking out.

doing this will also eliminate an egg (deformed lump) or flat spot in your tyre as the problem.

ok so I took the car to Pedders to get a 28 point safety check, and to see whats causing the rear click. The safety check costed me nil due to waiting time (2 hours) so saved some money there. Also the car seems to be very neat. With only upper control arm bushes slightly worn, which gives the car a bit of a knock when going up driveways etc. I was told to bring the car back in 6 – 12 months for another inspection and see how they are going. But due to me always having bad luck, it was a good day.

* Now for the clicking* Good news, the diff, the cv’s, all suspension components in the rear are in very good condition. Only thing to be making that noise that they thought, would be the brakes. Like something moving in the calliper. Ill take the car into a brake shop, and get that sorted out.

I read somewhere here on the forums that someone suspected it to be like the pad moving when under load or tyre direction change. So it may just as well be that.

While I was there, there was this other chap that has a 33 and he overheard me and his car had the same problem. But it didn't phase him as he was getting rid of the car soon.

Ive also got a noise like that (R32 gtst); it sounds like a solenoid clicking on and off. But i reckon its coming from my brakes or drive shaft on the drivers side. When i jack the car up and its in gear, i can turn the rear wheel a few degrees and kinda replicate the noise. I was thinking that it might be something inside the rear drum (handbrake) assembly. Either that or a worn rear drive shaft.

It pisses me of intermittantly, then i forget about it.

Shaun.

Ive also got a noise like that (R32 gtst); it sounds like a solenoid clicking on and off. But i reckon its coming from my brakes or drive shaft on the drivers side. When i jack the car up and its in gear, i can turn the rear wheel a few degrees and kinda replicate the noise. I was thinking that it might be something inside the rear drum (handbrake) assembly. Either that or a worn rear drive shaft.

It pisses me of intermittantly, then i forget about it.

Shaun.

Yeah buddy i thought so too, but I had it all checked out, including diff and everything, and sounds like a brake issue. Well mine anyway.. But heaps of people had the same sound but mechanics couldnt fault it. I havent had my brakes checked yet, but yeah, trial and error, and this is the last place to look! No big deal though anyway.

It must of been a generic fault with the R33's if it's a common problem. But unless your unlucky, its nothing major

  • 1 month later...

Has anyone found the cause of this problem? i get it too and it's really shitting me.

It clicks once everytime the driveline is loaded in a different direction (taking off, reversing, overrun from releasing throttle sharply).

I also get constant clicking when i'm above 60kmh. it gets louder when i load up the drivers side (corner left). also have tried spinning up the tires to 70kmh while the rear is on stands but doesn't happen when the car is jacked up.

Has anyone found the cause of this problem? i get it too and it's really shitting me.

It clicks once everytime the driveline is loaded in a different direction (taking off, reversing, overrun from releasing throttle sharply).

I also get constant clicking when i'm above 60kmh. it gets louder when i load up the drivers side (corner left). also have tried spinning up the tires to 70kmh while the rear is on stands but doesn't happen when the car is jacked up.

Sounds like you have worn universal joint/s. I had the same issue in my bluebird. Hope this helps

Try tightening your wheels pretty dam tight, And if u have bolt on spacers take your wheels off make sure there really tight and then put your wheels back on and tighten them right up.

I had the same problem and took it to Tyre power they where clueless to what it was, they tightened the wheels and i left.. listened.. no clicking.. so i was happy.. But when i turn i get it a little coming from my front end but i think that could be just cause my front bolt ons aren't tight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...