Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah steve. I told u b4 its Chris Miltons. You got a qoute from them by memory, but it was too much? Interesting though - I have heard (on good authority) that the same work I'm getting done would've costed anywhere up to $1100 from another engine developers. Chris is pretty cheap - but it does save u to take the head off yourself :D

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

Head portings going well if slowly :)

I've been told that you should use an 80 grit sander for the final finish on the inlet port to promote fuel/air mixing but it looks a bit rough to me. Does anyone know if thats the correct finish for aluminium ? ;)

I remember a while back i wanted to do this to my car. Basically i found out alot of good info on techniques and such. What i would personally do is go to some place which has old engine heads for scrap, and use it to practice the correct techniques. That way when it come to ur real head, u shouldnt have too much trouble.

Also A dremel i find is the perfect tool for this.

Funny you guys are on the subject cuz Im in the process of redoing my rb26 head. Im going through the head and porting and cleaning up the combustion chamber for better burn. Now, for the humps on the exhaust side, my theory on those is smooth them out as much as you can. If you were to run into a stud the worst that could happen is that you would have a very small exhaust leak through the stud itself (very unlikely). But it will pay nicely with power increased and better spool up too.

Chris milton ported and polished up both the inlet and exhaust ports. He said some thing about concentrating on the bowl area.

He also cleaned up the combustion chamber so that the air was able to flow in to the cyclinder a little easier hence removed material and then polished that up also. On the Inlet valves he did a 3 angle valve job I think it was and on the exhaust he did a different valve job which made everything really round. I'll find out the exact terminology.

It ended up costing a little more than anticipated as he forgot to mention that its extra to shim the valves when setting up the hydraulics, not sure exactly but u get the idea.

  • 2 weeks later...

Finished the head now and pictures will follow shortly.

The porting was all done using a cheap air powered die grinder and a Standard Abrasives porting kit. Took me 3 days to do it but I reckon I could do one in 1.5 days now I know the areas to concentrate on. Hope this information is useful to everybody :)

Originally posted by -Joel-

damn.. My camera won't take pics that clear..

What camera are u using?

Its a Fuji S602 camera I think, its not mine its a mates.

I just edited the thread with a load of pictures and a description of what I did but its been rejected :) .......I'll do them as seperate posts.

The original exhaust port showing the intrusive port bumps

Exhaust%20Port%20standard.jpg

The finished exhaust ports....

All%20Exhaust%20Ports%20Finished.jpg

Exhaust%20Port%20Finished.jpg

Exhaust%20Port%20Finished%202.jpg

From the combustion chamber side....

Exhaust%20Port%20Finished%203.jpg

All of the intrusive exhaust port bumps were removed the ports were enlarged to the exhaust manifold gasket.

All casting marks were removed.

The divider was knife edged and the valve seat area was blended into the bowl.

The 'short' side of the port was radiused as there is a fairly sharp edge where the port turns into the bowl area.

The exhaust ports were finished with a finely polished shiney surface to slow carbon build up.

Standard inlet port....

Inlet%20Port%20standard.jpg

Finished inlet ports....

All%20Inlet%20Ports%20Finished.jpg

Inlet%20Port%20Finished%201.jpg

From the combustion chamber side....

Inlet%20Port%20Finished%202.jpg

The inlet ports are very well shaped in standard form and have 3 angle seats as standard.

Inlet ports were all enlarged to the inlet gasket.

The area where the valve seat meets the bowl was blended smoothly and all port casting marks were removed.

The divider was knife edged and the ports were finished using an 80 grit sanding roll to promote good fuel/air mixing.

Combustion chambers......

Combustion%20chambers.jpg

Combustion%20chamber.jpg

All combustion chambers were smoothed and polished thoroughly to reduce the likelihood of detonation and also to slow carbon buildup.

The combustion chamber shape has not been changed at all so compression ratio should be unnaffected.

  • 1 month later...

If you didnt have to buy a new head gasket when you remove the head i would grind and polish it all up myself... bit of a pain .. maybe one day when i need to rip the head ill do it ...

I got a question, ive got my exhaust manifold off at the moment and i was wondering if its a good idea to grind and smooth the inside of the manifold since its off anyways?

Another question i got is on the manifolds turbo outlet there is a divider in the middle that seperates the pipes - OOO|OOO -

anyone know if i can play around with that ? eg. like make it a knife edge or totaly remove it ... It has a slot in the middle of the divider as well ...

oh and make sure you don't go to thin as it will crack. Get a pinch measuring tool to check wall thickness. don't go under 2.5mm.

Also some of the bumps near the outlet are purposeful to direct the airflow around a the bend, these need to be smoothed rather than removed.

Be carefull knife-edging the outlet as a heat fatigued piece of broken metal will kill your turbo in a second.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...