Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Car: R34 Series 2

Alarm: Autowatch 446Rli

Battery: Marshall battery (less than a mth old)

About a mth ago my car battery died for no reason. Battery was from Japan (i imported the car) hence i didn't complain much. Bear in mind i'm a weekend driver and i usually start my car every 3-4 days.

After changing to a Marshall battery, all is well until an hour ago when i tried to start the car like i usually do, the battery is now dead AGAIN !!! It's a brand new battery which is less than a month. When i tried to start the car i noticed the battery meter is howering at 10 at the battery gauge. After a few tries, it's currently sitting at 8. The interior lights are working but not my hid / parkers.

Ok, here's the thing, when i insert the key into the ignition i keep hearing this sound every 5-10 seconds from my alarm's hub (tick, tick, tick). Is there anything wrong with the alarm? Is the alarm draining the battery ? Is it a grounding issue ? Is my ecu fked?? What i can say is the battery will most likely be alive again after a jump start but i'm afraid this might occur again in the future.

Any recommendations as to where i can get my car's alarm to be looked at, at WA ?

Please advise guys

Edited by hotchoc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224543-r34-alarm-battery/
Share on other sites

I'd say the ticking is because your battery is flat, some relays dont have enough voltage to close.

Sounds like you have got a problem somewhere if your new battery is going flat, first thing to check would be alternator charging voltage. Next thing to check would be standby current, using a multimeter which would confirm if something is draining it.

I'd say the ticking is because your battery is flat, some relays dont have enough voltage to close.

Sounds like you have got a problem somewhere if your new battery is going flat, first thing to check would be alternator charging voltage. Next thing to check would be standby current, using a multimeter which would confirm if something is draining it.

Hey mate,

I'm calling the road side assistance guy from Marshall. What should i tell him to check for?

1. Alternator charging voltage? - What's the normal range ?

2. Standby current - what should the person be looking for?

Do you have any idea wat's draining the battery power? My frd said it might be the wiring of my alarm (i.e. incorrect grounding etc)

idle current with car off all closed no lights on 0.05A. if more then something is wrong. battery charge voltage is 13.5-13.8v if 12.60 or less alt is dead and more than likely has a shorted diode. either way it has to come off.

Using the multimeter, everything shows it's normal

14.67v - no light on except the engine

14.61v - high beam on with engine

Draining of power = 0.08 to 0.09 when car is off

According to the chap, my alarm (immobilizer and alarm keypad) is draining my power as i hardly drive it. I drive primarily on weekends and he said this should be ok provided i drive the 34 on a daily or alternate days basis or it'll prob drain out in 4-5 days time.

I also fd out my battery is the Marshall 40D battery with only 300CCA cranking power. Is this power sufficient for 34 owners?

The guy reckon it's better for me to go for the XD60 with 380 CCA which would be sufficient for the way i drive (weekend driver) and also cos i'm planning to get amps, speakers, woofer, etc but in order to do this, i need to swap my terminals to the larger ones to accommodate this type of battery. Is this advisable ?

Btw, there's nothing wrong with the alarm / wiring, alternators, etc.

What do you guys reckon?

Using the multimeter, everything shows it's normal

14.67v - no light on except the engine

14.61v - high beam on with engine

This test is flawed, it only really shows what the alternator is putting out, and has little to do with the health of the battery.

However if it holds voltage well after car is turned off doing the same test, then it should be fine.

This test is flawed, it only really shows what the alternator is putting out, and has little to do with the health of the battery.

However if it holds voltage well after car is turned off doing the same test, then it should be fine.

You're right, but I think he's just had a new battery put in. So Battery should not be the problem if its only 1 month old.

idle current with car off all closed no lights on 0.05A. if more then something is wrong.
Draining of power = 0.08 to 0.09 when car is off

Something is draining current, either pull fuses with your multimeter connected so you know whats sinking the current, or take it to an autoelectrican?

You're right, but I think he's just had a new battery put in. So Battery should not be the problem if its only 1 month old.

And he's damaged it already by dropping down to 8V.

The ~0.1 drain is probably you alarm/immobilizer/stereo standby.

Don't worry about it, in a week (7days) it'll only drain ~17 amps out of your ~40amp battery.

Get a small smart battery charger (~$40) if your going to leave it longer than a week at a time without driving.

Didn't know you can 'kill' the battery if it goes below 8V. Ya reckon it's officially game over now for that bettery ?

Either way i'm switching over to larger CCA battery n be driving the car on Wed, Fri and weekends :)

Be keeping the battery as a spare reserve.

p.s. When you say smart battery charger, do you mean those that auto detect when the battery is fully charged up and it'll stop charging?

Didn't know you can 'kill' the battery if it goes below 8V. Ya reckon it's officially game over now for that bettery ?

Below 10V is actually the kill zone, 8V is a promise.

Thing is, you might get another 3 months use out of it... and depending on your warranty, you might get a new one.

p.s. When you say smart battery charger, do you mean those that auto detect when the battery is fully charged up and it'll stop charging?

Yup, think Jaycar have 'em, my old work has em (12 Volt Shop), charge rate of 1 amp or greater would be ideal.

Be cautious about any electronic gear that Bunnings spews out.

ok sorry to butt in but my batt went flat few days ago too on my 34 and I jump started it with my neighbours car..all good..took it for a long drive down the coast and back no problems...tonight went and started it and its gone again...

Have stuck it on a charger and going to stick the batt back in tommorow..

Question: My new batt may have gone below 8V as per above when my alternator died a couple of mths ago...if I bring it back to claim warranty..is there anyway they can tell its been damaged?

Question: My new batt may have gone below 8V as per above when my alternator died a couple of mths ago...if I bring it back to claim warranty..is there anyway they can tell its been damaged?

They only know what you tell them. If you tell them your alternator died, then warranty will likely be refused.

At the end of the day, its worth a shot.

  • 1 month later...

Not sure if this is related to the battery but this battery / alarm thingy is starting to piss me off:

My alarm was working properly few days back and last night all of a sudden it's starting to go haywire.

Basically drove the car to a frd's place and arm the car as i usually do. After 2-3 mins, my alarm starts to go off and i just disarm it thinking i've accidentally pressed the panic button. Moments later after arming it, the same thing happen again.

When to the ct and parked at the car park and the same shit happened after i've armed the car. Same thing happened again when i went home and parked the car and arm it. I literally arm the car and place the keys in front of my hands.

Alarm: Autowatch 446Rli

Add ons: Boot release , central locking, motion sensors in the car

Do you know what's going on ??

I've just tested the car just now with the alarm and now it's working fine again so.... WTF ???? Is this due to a poor connection or some grounding issue?

hi chris

what do u mean 'sensors in car - clarify' ?

ya reckon it's the bonnet switch ? how do i check this switch ?

pop the bonnet, depress the switch tht triggers the alarm, arm the car and see if it goes off. Happened to me b4, the switch was not fitted properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...