Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting Blitz Injectors To A R34

shnaped_second
 Share

Recommended Posts

shnaped_second Mentor

shnaped_second

Posted
Posted

Bought some Blitz 525cc injectors of greenline and spacers, Part # 31209, got a mechanic to try and fit them to my car but he couldnt get them to fit, said that the orings dont fit and there wouldnt be enough room for them and the fuel rail in between the manifold. So basicly paid $200 to get my old injectors pulled out and put back in. Can anybody help if you have fitted injectors to a r34 please.

Thanks

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224595-fitting-blitz-injectors-to-a-r34/
Share on other sites
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted

I just sent you the same info via PM

I took one of my old injectors and the new ones and the fuel rail to a mobile injector guy and got 12 new orings to suit, cost me $20 on a sunday. There was a 6 "green" thicker round orings and 6 black cyclinder shaped orings used.

You need to remove some of the smaller orings that come with them the blitz injectors

I have seen the blitz injectors on Yahoo japan for sale and come with additional orings

I had them in for approx 2000k's with no problems. I have since returned my car back to stock and sold them

No other mods needed. the plugs go staight on. no need to use the supplied plugs.

Fit the spacer between the manifold and fuel rail. I did need to use longer bolts

shnaped_second Mentor

shnaped_second

Posted
  • Author
Posted
*shudder* it is a horrible job to do though, space is limited but it's not impossible...nice to see it's coming along Brad!

Yeah thats why i thought id pay sum1 to do it instead of me, gtrs is fitted just gota get these fitted and my z32 afm and should see around 260rwkw

33_skyline Enthusiast

33_skyline

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem on an R33 S2. (I assume same fuel rail)

Swap the O-rings with the factory injector O-rings.

Once the O-rings are on you will notice a lip above the bottom O-ring (middle injector - purple top)

You can sort of see it in this picture attached.

You need to trim this lip back a little, a set of side cutter pliers will do.

The injectors should then fit, you do also need the blitz injector collers (which you said you bought).

Then you have the injector caps (hold the injector into the fuel rail) they have a little rubber piece underneath that you pull out

and then sits snug on top of the injector

They should sit the same as the stock injectors so shouldn't have a problem with clearance on the plenum top is

back on

If you have anymore questions just ask.

There is also a pic of the injectors installed in my car.

post-35997-1213924220_thumb.jpg

post-35997-1213925119_thumb.jpg

shnaped_second Mentor

shnaped_second

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Need to remove the top of the inlet plenum to get access to the injectors

Yeah he split the manifold in half

I SMS'd you a pick mate.

Thanks mate

I had the same problem on an R33 S2. (I assume same fuel rail)

Swap the O-rings with the factory injector O-rings.

Once the O-rings are on you will notice a lip above the bottom O-ring (middle injector - purple top)

You can sort of see it in this picture attached.

You need to trim this lip back a little, a set of side cutter pliers will do.

The injectors should then fit, you do also need the blitz injector collers (which you said you bought).

Then you have the injector caps (hold the injector into the fuel rail) they have a little rubber piece underneath that you pull out

and then sits snug on top of the injector

They should sit the same as the stock injectors so shouldn't have a problem with clearance on the plenum top is

back on

If you have anymore questions just ask.

There is also a pic of the injectors installed in my car.

pretty much got it all sorted just gota get some Orings now then should be all good

Thanks again guys

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
Yeah he split the manifold in half

Thanks mate

pretty much got it all sorted just gota get some Orings now then should be all good

Thanks again guys

Bah, leave the manifold in place you'll find it's a nice challenge......that's what I keep telling myself :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...