Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Collective, I've got some R33 GTR rims I'm going to powedercoat to try and match the 'gun metal grey' of the std R32 GTR rim, as they're going on my R32 and I want to keep the 'stock' look as much as possible.

Has anyone tried to do this match and if so what PC colour did you use and were you happy with the result?

Also, I've had a chat with a few people about the prep. work needed before powdercoating and most seem to think that the current factory finish will need to be stripped first by doing one of the following:

Sand blasting

Burning it off

Chemical dip

All of these methods would potentially concern me in terms of how they might damage the rims.....Perhaps I'm being a bit consevative, but does anyone have a view on any of the above methods of stripping and whether any of them are definite no-no's?

Any other top tips? The powdercoater I'm onto has been recommended by a guy who now works for me, who used to run the PC plant so without having used them myself, they're probably good.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224803-powdercoating-rims/
Share on other sites

I have recently wanted to repair and recoat some rims.

don't worry about sand blasting rims it won't hurt them as long as the operator knows what they are doing. I have some very soft aluminium rims that went to a wheel repairer who lipped and straightened them then took them to strip and paint at lakehaven NSW for painting, I've always thought power coating was the way too go on rims but I've had many people tell me 2 pak is as tuff if not tougher, and there's more range of finishes... Price between powdercoat and 2pak was the same roughly powdercoat maybe slightly more. you may be able to find cheaper but I'm not really into cheap and dodgy...

to repair ($200) and strip & repaint 2 pak ($480), but considering I got them for $250, thats alright, 17" Sparco brand lightweight jap rims in staggered widths....

I pick up the finished product on Monday, photos then...

I was also offered urethane, but had no experience with that so said no...

I got them back today actually. no time to take a photo as yet, the 2pak seems pretty tuff, though they left them for me to buff them which I thought was pretty lazy of them, slight orange peel there if you look for it.. whenever I pick things up for workshops I just have to put them in the car and not look at it, I will always find some sort of defect in their work... and I've tried heaps of different painters and other workshops.

I prefer 2pak over powder coating as far as look, but I'll wait and see how they go after 6months of abuse...

pics up soon...

oh let me whinge for a second... why is it a painter will tell you all the cars and bikes they have and how they won some car show yet when they do work on my car the finish is usually rushed looking and they hate having to fix their work.. I went back to one painter 4 times just to paint a bonnet and it still had runs in the paint, I got sick of transporting the bonnet there so I just bad mouth their business now, thats how it works as far as I concerned... *finished*

Better to get it off your chest than keep it in! Sorry to hear the tales of woe. GTR ownership is just another disappointment waiting to happen with people who take your good money for an average to poor job. You slowly but poorly learn.....I'm going down the Pc route so I'll post when they're done but that'll be a couple of weeks.

Wow $160 for the set, that is the cheapest I have ever heard it... It beats paying $500, I got quotes from 4 different places all were $60 per wheel plus blasting...

Damn I wish I got mine done that cheap... But I gotta say, white hey... just try keeping them as clean as possible as some brake dusts will actually stain or bake on, not all but I have seen it happen, another reason I love black rims... you can't see the brake dust as much...

They do look hot though in white, and that price tag is gonna be making me jealous everytime I look at my newly refurbished rims... next comes anodizing the centre nuts and air valve stems, lets see how much money I can waste on that...

Ive got a question for you guys....I have chrome Uras ns-01s can I have the centres (spokes) painted/powder coated back but still keep the chrome lip? does anyone know of anyone on the Goldcoast/brissy that could do that?

recently got my rims re-powdercoated, cost a total of $160 for the set that included the sandblasting and coating, im overjoyed with the results

pics tell a million words

DSCF1589.jpg

DSCF1590.jpg

DSCF1591.jpg

DSCF1595.jpg

That is an awesome looking job. Nice work. Where'd you get it done? I can't beleive they also did the 'inside' of the rim too. How'd the hang the rim when they sprayed the powder?

  • 3 months later...
Hello Collective, I've got some R33 GTR rims I'm going to powedercoat to try and match the 'gun metal grey' of the std R32 GTR rim, as they're going on my R32 and I want to keep the 'stock' look as much as possible.

Has anyone tried to do this match and if so what PC colour did you use and were you happy with the result?

Also, I've had a chat with a few people about the prep. work needed before powdercoating and most seem to think that the current factory finish will need to be stripped first by doing one of the following:

Sand blasting

Burning it off

Chemical dip

All of these methods would potentially concern me in terms of how they might damage the rims.....Perhaps I'm being a bit consevative, but does anyone have a view on any of the above methods of stripping and whether any of them are definite no-no's?

Any other top tips? The powdercoater I'm onto has been recommended by a guy who now works for me, who used to run the PC plant so without having used them myself, they're probably good.

Thanks.

Soo many colours to choose from... I asked for 'precious steel pearl' but got 'precious silver pearl'... I don't mind, pearl powder coats look awesome. 'Precious steel peal' is pretty close to gunmetal though I think. I reckon get a clear-coat too if you can, I was pleasantly surprised to hear that the shop could do one for an extra $15 ;) Heres one:

post-32445-1224234456_thumb.jpg

Close-up showing the metal flakes:

post-32445-1224234471_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...