Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've been reading and watching alot of the other threads on here... thought i'd show of some of my own handy work if you'd call it that.. see if i can upload the pics here. the t28 dump is for a nissan micra :) and the 3" job is for a 3040 on a rb25.. i put flex's in all my dump pipe/exhaust work, has worked for me so far, never had a manifold crack in the last 4years over many many cars.

post-5098-1213946695_thumb.jpg

post-5098-1213946747_thumb.jpg

post-5098-1213946833_thumb.jpg

post-5098-1213946871_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/
Share on other sites

nice work :) its a pitty i dont have pics of my of my work to show.. i really should by a digital camera..

what welder do you use?

also were do you get your stainless flanges.. the place up here that i get my flanges cut at want an arm and a leg to do stainless flanges and they do a fairly shitty job anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-3972254
Share on other sites

nice work :( its a pitty i dont have pics of my of my work to show.. i really should by a digital camera..

what welder do you use?

also were do you get your stainless flanges.. the place up here that i get my flanges cut at want an arm and a leg to do stainless flanges and they do a fairly shitty job anyway

what welder? a tig :P flanges = local exhaust shop.. same place i get my bends.. took me ages to find a decent supplier with really nice quality bends, all the pipes in the photo's haven't seen a buff yet, the photo's are straight of the welder... all hand smoothed inside aswell, doubt it makes any hp difference.. but atleast it looks sex. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-3974894
Share on other sites

what welder? a tig :P flanges = local exhaust shop.. same place i get my bends.. took me ages to find a decent supplier with really nice quality bends, all the pipes in the photo's haven't seen a buff yet, the photo's are straight of the welder... all hand smoothed inside aswell, doubt it makes any hp difference.. but atleast it looks sex. :(

LOL i know its a tig i was more refering to what brand and model tig you use.. as for suppliers of good quaility bends i was lucky enough to have worked in a sheetmetal place for a while and got a very very good contact for stainless pipe and mandrel bends

out of curiousity what do you pay per 3inch 90 mandrel in 304?

i dont bother buffing any of the exhausts i do as they eventually change colour anyway

wish i had an exhaust shop like yours to get flanges from.. ive gone straight to the suppliers that the exhaust shops use and they still want an arm and leg for stainless flanges and there not cut all that cleanly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-3974989
Share on other sites

just a cheapie newasia tig.. wsm200. used those at work heaps, so i thought id get myself one. :/ does the trick for what i'm doing.. 3" 90's are about $40, polished/ and what i guess you'd call line honed inside.. pretty hectic finish :P stainless flanges are about $30, 12mm thick, pretty nice quality.. wouldn't call it show quality, but its pretty good :) what you paying for the gear wholesale?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-3976363
Share on other sites

just a cheapie newasia tig.. wsm200. used those at work heaps, so i thought id get myself one. :D does the trick for what i'm doing.. 3" 90's are about $40, polished/ and what i guess you'd call line honed inside.. pretty hectic finish :D stainless flanges are about $30, 12mm thick, pretty nice quality.. wouldn't call it show quality, but its pretty good :) what you paying for the gear wholesale?

i use to pay $22-25 a bend for 3inch however price of nickel has gone up a little bit since than so prolly 25-28 for 3inch but yer thats highly polished finish.. and smooth as babys but in side can cut the bend in half so its a 45 and it will mate up perfectly to straight pipe..

have gotten stainless bends from china before for slightly cheaper but the material quaility was f**king shithouse.. the mandrel bends were more like press bends.. however i'd say they were done with a f**ked mandrel bending machine.. was like a football rolled sideways around a corner ;) so now its

as for the flanges.. if they have the cad drawing for it already its cheaper but i cant remember the price last one i got done was a custom one for a wrx split pulse dump pipe i think it was around 40-50

3inch 2 bolt flanges were around $7 each from memory however that wasnt in stainless

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-3980200
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Where is the best place to get these bits from (bends, flanges). I am in Brisbane if that makes any difference.

Thanks

Tubesales out at jacobs well do all stainless tubing, bends, plate, discs, reducers etc if you're in trade you should get a decent price. Bit of a drive though if you're near town. If you find somewhere closer let me know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-4042041
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Just saw this thread, and since i'm keen on a tig as i do abit of pipe work, i looked up the tig this guys uses..... holly cow, at Token Tools in AUS, there only $558 !

http://www.tokentoolroom.com/wsm200a.html

Not bad for a home workshop. It doesn't look too cheesy from the pics.... might grab one !

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-4348352
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

try using stainless mig wire as filler.. uber small neat beads.

my 25yr old transtig 150 is pretty awsome. with the foot pedal its sweet as. but doing ally it pulls 39 amp tru the 240 volt socket..... love doing laps to the circut breaker :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-4469709
Share on other sites

try using stainless mig wire as filler.. uber small neat beads.

my 25yr old transtig 150 is pretty awsome. with the foot pedal its sweet as. but doing ally it pulls 39 amp tru the 240 volt socket..... love doing laps to the circut breaker ;)

i hardly ever use any filler wire at all :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224820-the-tig-and-me/#findComment-4471885
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...