Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that explains alot... DETONATION + HIGH RPM = VERY BAD. sorry to here about that mate. Was the boost controler properly tuned on a dyno and was the timing set up properly for the higher boost?

it was running 14 psi the 2 years i had it (pcm valve with no copper restrictors in them) and i bought the controller just to drop it down to about 11.6 to be safe.. somehow the controllers still caused detonation though, mech said it might have been a particularly cold night or something.. i dunno but it sucks and i'll be ditching my turbotech for a profec b or something in future

Also the car noise has always sounded the same, i have a pretty good ear for pinging so you'd think i'd pick up it detonating.. didn't notice any difference..

I had put it through a 7k clutch drop and pushed it very hard earlier in the night, it's sort of weird it didnt let go then

Edited by GTAAAH

R33 crank has a full width oil pump drive, that match's the gear set. You can get a collar from JUN / others, or locally made, thats then pressed onto your BNR32 crank. Considering the cost, it must 100% be done. Popular topic on SAU.

Rods are generally fine to 400rwkw+, the bolts can fail though. IMO, bolts are there to keep the rod caps on and are really only subjected to load from the rod / piston inertial weight. I'd think even stock rod bolts should last if not over revved (increased inertia)

thanks heaps for that mate, i had no idea.. now i just need to find a job that pays more than $14 an hour

the collar kits costing $100 so thats all good,

my mech has suggested a metal head gasket ($500) and also suggests i replace the rods if i want 320kw+-.. i dont like to tell him his job but i dont really want to spend another $900 on rods.. is there a way you can check the condition of the rods or something to tell if they're going to last?

Edited by GTAAAH

Gonna get the rods now, because mech said they're worth replacing just so i know everythings been built and i dont have to worry about trouble down the track.. so looks like about 9ish all up, of which i have $300.. hah.. anyone need a kidney?

oh cheers, yeh i found some for 795 which was a bit cheaper than the $900 ones, H beam rods or something.. getting cp pistons or something.. head studs are damn exxy unfortuntaly, >< and metal head gasket i didnt count on, collar is 185 pump 500 so that bits not too bad, end of the day i'll hopefully have a reliable 320kw.. costing me 8 for the build, without turbo's though, painful as

Edited by GTAAAH

I want to know how important using head studs, (eg ARP) are compared to the stock hex bolts which seem to be pretty good (600HP at crank).

Especially if used with a metal head gasket.

Don't want to replace things that don't need changing for no reason, especially if aims are not 700HP+ and 34 PSI.

I know it's a peace of mind thing, it all adds up though!!

Edited by GTRsean

yeh you see people run 350kw on stock engines, rarely do they list head studs as being the cause for a rebuild if something goes.. idk tuner suggested it (i hadnt heard of the metal head gasket either) so i thought what the hell

Yep, they ain't cheap.

I was going to keep stock rods and put bolts on em too but after all the mucking around, I'll just end up getting some spools.

New head bolts might be what I'll be doing. Will have to check funds lol.

7k clutch drop on a 500km old clutch? CRAZY MOFO!

well it actually has 760km on it atm (not 500), tuner told me to wait for 1000.. but everyone knows clutch drops are part of the wearing-in process..heh..heh

Edited by GTAAAH

I saw H beam rods on an American Ebay store for about $300 us dollars. Brand new, with bolts and listed for the RB26. I was spewing i prepped my standard ones because that cost me more than these forged items.

Might be worth checking it out. It was a dedicated crankshaft store or something like that.

Shaun.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...