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that explains alot... DETONATION + HIGH RPM = VERY BAD. sorry to here about that mate. Was the boost controler properly tuned on a dyno and was the timing set up properly for the higher boost?

it was running 14 psi the 2 years i had it (pcm valve with no copper restrictors in them) and i bought the controller just to drop it down to about 11.6 to be safe.. somehow the controllers still caused detonation though, mech said it might have been a particularly cold night or something.. i dunno but it sucks and i'll be ditching my turbotech for a profec b or something in future

Also the car noise has always sounded the same, i have a pretty good ear for pinging so you'd think i'd pick up it detonating.. didn't notice any difference..

I had put it through a 7k clutch drop and pushed it very hard earlier in the night, it's sort of weird it didnt let go then

Edited by GTAAAH

R33 crank has a full width oil pump drive, that match's the gear set. You can get a collar from JUN / others, or locally made, thats then pressed onto your BNR32 crank. Considering the cost, it must 100% be done. Popular topic on SAU.

Rods are generally fine to 400rwkw+, the bolts can fail though. IMO, bolts are there to keep the rod caps on and are really only subjected to load from the rod / piston inertial weight. I'd think even stock rod bolts should last if not over revved (increased inertia)

thanks heaps for that mate, i had no idea.. now i just need to find a job that pays more than $14 an hour

the collar kits costing $100 so thats all good,

my mech has suggested a metal head gasket ($500) and also suggests i replace the rods if i want 320kw+-.. i dont like to tell him his job but i dont really want to spend another $900 on rods.. is there a way you can check the condition of the rods or something to tell if they're going to last?

Edited by GTAAAH

Gonna get the rods now, because mech said they're worth replacing just so i know everythings been built and i dont have to worry about trouble down the track.. so looks like about 9ish all up, of which i have $300.. hah.. anyone need a kidney?

oh cheers, yeh i found some for 795 which was a bit cheaper than the $900 ones, H beam rods or something.. getting cp pistons or something.. head studs are damn exxy unfortuntaly, >< and metal head gasket i didnt count on, collar is 185 pump 500 so that bits not too bad, end of the day i'll hopefully have a reliable 320kw.. costing me 8 for the build, without turbo's though, painful as

Edited by GTAAAH

I want to know how important using head studs, (eg ARP) are compared to the stock hex bolts which seem to be pretty good (600HP at crank).

Especially if used with a metal head gasket.

Don't want to replace things that don't need changing for no reason, especially if aims are not 700HP+ and 34 PSI.

I know it's a peace of mind thing, it all adds up though!!

Edited by GTRsean

yeh you see people run 350kw on stock engines, rarely do they list head studs as being the cause for a rebuild if something goes.. idk tuner suggested it (i hadnt heard of the metal head gasket either) so i thought what the hell

Yep, they ain't cheap.

I was going to keep stock rods and put bolts on em too but after all the mucking around, I'll just end up getting some spools.

New head bolts might be what I'll be doing. Will have to check funds lol.

7k clutch drop on a 500km old clutch? CRAZY MOFO!

well it actually has 760km on it atm (not 500), tuner told me to wait for 1000.. but everyone knows clutch drops are part of the wearing-in process..heh..heh

Edited by GTAAAH

I saw H beam rods on an American Ebay store for about $300 us dollars. Brand new, with bolts and listed for the RB26. I was spewing i prepped my standard ones because that cost me more than these forged items.

Might be worth checking it out. It was a dedicated crankshaft store or something like that.

Shaun.

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