Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okies so recently (after I blew up the r33) I thought it might be time to upgrade the old skyline to something newer...

I've had the r33 (gtst) for a year since I've had it i've done a few minor mods FMIC, Exhaust, RIMS, Sports Seats, and Stereo....Spent approximately bout 5-6k on all this extra stuff..and i've had to rebuild it approx another 2k

Anyways I brought it for 10.5k and am looking to sell it for a similar price.

but what im really wondering is the upgrade from an r33 to and xr6 t worth it??

What do you think of the xr6 turbo's? and any known problems...

Im looking at the BA models 2003-2005.. and most with approx 100,000km on the clock are priced between 16k-22k depending on colour, auto, manual etc....

Whats your opinion guys??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225127-should-i-sell-my-r33/
Share on other sites

XR6 turbo's make good power with minimal modifications, stock car with a flash tune makes 248rwkw - That's a generic tune

I would personally go for a series 2 as any problems with the series 1 would have been fixed up in the series 2

Over all I think they are useless though, what good is 250rwkw if the car handles like a container ship but that being said it depends what your using the car for

Probably the only thing it would be good for (performance wise) is 1/4 mile with some work to the gearbox but after all it weighs far more than your skyline, its about twice the size and its a family sedan. Its not made for track/circuit work, more comfort and cruising with a sporty edge?

Depends what you want to do with the car, I have heard they are quiet heavy on fuel also but 4.0L twin cam engine with a 700hp turbo, you wouldn't be looking for economy

Also have heard that there has been issues with the drivelines on the XR6 turbo's, broken axles and blown diffs seem like a common problem

My thoughts :laugh:

thanks the positives im looking at is I would most probably be buying secondhand from a ford dealer with warranty (my brother works for ford and that means discount) im getting to that age now mid 20's lol (im sounding old) with the skyline is kidna a lil impractical..need somethign a bit bigger with a bit less police pull lol...i read a bit about fuel and from my research dont see them to be anymore thirsty than the r33..im not really expecting to mod it too much thinkign exhaust and tune..ill put some nice rims on it and that'll be it...i would prefer manual but if I can find a nice auto with low k's why not...i havent driven the turbo model yet buy my father owns the xr6 and i think they handle pretty good..not as good as the skyline but not too bad...

I've had the r33 (gtst) for a year since I've had it i've done a few minor mods FMIC, Exhaust, RIMS, Sports Seats, and Stereo....Spent approximately bout 5-6k on all this extra stuff..

Wow

That means you have had my Exhaust for almost a year..... :)

Wayne lol..i told you i'd drop it off when you needed it lol its seitting safely in a nice locked garage no stress :) ....its just i have no cars that I can transport it in right now..both my commodores are off the road, the skyline is off the road, and my parents cars are both lil hatchbacks right now lol..it's not going anywhere I promise...

why not....? If you feel that you need a larger 4 door sedan then I think the XR6 turbo is an excellent choice..So what if handling isnt as good as the R33....improvements can be made without spending the earth

Wayne lol..i told you i'd drop it off when you needed it lol its seitting safely in a nice locked garage no stress :) ....its just i have no cars that I can transport it in right now..both my commodores are off the road, the skyline is off the road, and my parents cars are both lil hatchbacks right now lol..it's not going anywhere I promise...

here maybe you forgot the meaning

BORROW

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Borrowing)

Borrow or borrowing can mean: to receive (something) from somebody temporarily, expecting to return............. (and return that shit after use, not a year later)

I think an XR6T is a good upgrade if you want something with a bit more space / practicality. A mate of mine has one for sale atm its out side of your lisyed price range but it shows how much power you can make pretty easily.

This is a link to his car for sale on carsales.com

http://carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/F...N&Make=FORD

ohh eyah im still tossing up between the ute and sedan..but the utes have trouble getting traction..well my mate has an xr8 anyways and it is way to tail happy...

the utes are made on the wagon chassis and are just as heavy as sedans... the traction differences are less thatn you'd expect

here maybe you forgot the meaning

BORROW

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Borrowing)

Borrow or borrowing can mean: to receive (something) from somebody temporarily, expecting to return............. (and return that shit after use, not a year later)

lol when i last spoke to wayne..i told him if he needed it in a hurry i'd return it..its just sitting here all safe and sound..and at this stage..he hasnt contacted me to get it back..sabbai and few of you boys all knwo where I live so im not goin anywhere anytime soon :)

but anyways since the topic was for the xr6 lol..not the exhaust..basically everyone thinks as far as something more practical is concerned but with similar power the xr6t is a decnt upgrade...mmm might go shopping this weekend then..just gotta clear a few cars outta the driveway first...anyone want a slightly used (and missing a few parts) vp $200 lol of a shell of a pintara trx $50 lol...gotta get the skyline and vk going too..I hate cars...

XR6 turbo's make good power with minimal modifications, stock car with a flash tune makes 248rwkw - That's a generic tune

I would personally go for a series 2 as any problems with the series 1 would have been fixed up in the series 2

Agreed. If you can stretch your budget to a BA MKII or BF go this route and get the 6 speed manual.

The BA MKI did have a few known issues (diff etc) that were rectified in later models.

Over all I think they are useless though, what good is 250rwkw if the car handles like a container ship but that being said it depends what your using the car for

Probably the only thing it would be good for (performance wise) is 1/4 mile with some work to the gearbox but after all it weighs far more than your skyline, its about twice the size and its a family sedan. Its not made for track/circuit work, more comfort and cruising with a sporty edge?

With a few suspension mods they handle well. A stock R33 doesn't exactly handle like a go-kart either.

They are really not that heavy (only 150-200kg more than an R34) and certainly not that much wider/longer either, well not enough to really notice when you park it anyway.

I'd say go for it, as chances are the car will be used 98% for street use so having an extra few doors and a bit of extra weight wont be that noticable.

XR6T is one of the best value falcowhores you can get. Was looking at buying one of these babies years ago when they came out.

The engine and transmission in the XR6T were light years ahead of the crappy pushrod lumps of irons in the local V8s when it came out. It is very easy to make big power out of the engine with just bolt-ons. Air Power Systems have very comprehensive, banf-for-your buck kits eg., 390kw and 10 sec car with bolt-ons

http://www.airpowersystems.com/falcon/xr6turbo.htm

I believe some of their milder stage I systems are street legal...

Whack on a whiteline suspension kit, AP brakes and you're good to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...