Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okies so recently (after I blew up the r33) I thought it might be time to upgrade the old skyline to something newer...

I've had the r33 (gtst) for a year since I've had it i've done a few minor mods FMIC, Exhaust, RIMS, Sports Seats, and Stereo....Spent approximately bout 5-6k on all this extra stuff..and i've had to rebuild it approx another 2k

Anyways I brought it for 10.5k and am looking to sell it for a similar price.

but what im really wondering is the upgrade from an r33 to and xr6 t worth it??

What do you think of the xr6 turbo's? and any known problems...

Im looking at the BA models 2003-2005.. and most with approx 100,000km on the clock are priced between 16k-22k depending on colour, auto, manual etc....

Whats your opinion guys??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225127-should-i-sell-my-r33/
Share on other sites

XR6 turbo's make good power with minimal modifications, stock car with a flash tune makes 248rwkw - That's a generic tune

I would personally go for a series 2 as any problems with the series 1 would have been fixed up in the series 2

Over all I think they are useless though, what good is 250rwkw if the car handles like a container ship but that being said it depends what your using the car for

Probably the only thing it would be good for (performance wise) is 1/4 mile with some work to the gearbox but after all it weighs far more than your skyline, its about twice the size and its a family sedan. Its not made for track/circuit work, more comfort and cruising with a sporty edge?

Depends what you want to do with the car, I have heard they are quiet heavy on fuel also but 4.0L twin cam engine with a 700hp turbo, you wouldn't be looking for economy

Also have heard that there has been issues with the drivelines on the XR6 turbo's, broken axles and blown diffs seem like a common problem

My thoughts :laugh:

thanks the positives im looking at is I would most probably be buying secondhand from a ford dealer with warranty (my brother works for ford and that means discount) im getting to that age now mid 20's lol (im sounding old) with the skyline is kidna a lil impractical..need somethign a bit bigger with a bit less police pull lol...i read a bit about fuel and from my research dont see them to be anymore thirsty than the r33..im not really expecting to mod it too much thinkign exhaust and tune..ill put some nice rims on it and that'll be it...i would prefer manual but if I can find a nice auto with low k's why not...i havent driven the turbo model yet buy my father owns the xr6 and i think they handle pretty good..not as good as the skyline but not too bad...

I've had the r33 (gtst) for a year since I've had it i've done a few minor mods FMIC, Exhaust, RIMS, Sports Seats, and Stereo....Spent approximately bout 5-6k on all this extra stuff..

Wow

That means you have had my Exhaust for almost a year..... :)

Wayne lol..i told you i'd drop it off when you needed it lol its seitting safely in a nice locked garage no stress :) ....its just i have no cars that I can transport it in right now..both my commodores are off the road, the skyline is off the road, and my parents cars are both lil hatchbacks right now lol..it's not going anywhere I promise...

why not....? If you feel that you need a larger 4 door sedan then I think the XR6 turbo is an excellent choice..So what if handling isnt as good as the R33....improvements can be made without spending the earth

Wayne lol..i told you i'd drop it off when you needed it lol its seitting safely in a nice locked garage no stress :) ....its just i have no cars that I can transport it in right now..both my commodores are off the road, the skyline is off the road, and my parents cars are both lil hatchbacks right now lol..it's not going anywhere I promise...

here maybe you forgot the meaning

BORROW

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Borrowing)

Borrow or borrowing can mean: to receive (something) from somebody temporarily, expecting to return............. (and return that shit after use, not a year later)

I think an XR6T is a good upgrade if you want something with a bit more space / practicality. A mate of mine has one for sale atm its out side of your lisyed price range but it shows how much power you can make pretty easily.

This is a link to his car for sale on carsales.com

http://carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/F...N&Make=FORD

ohh eyah im still tossing up between the ute and sedan..but the utes have trouble getting traction..well my mate has an xr8 anyways and it is way to tail happy...

the utes are made on the wagon chassis and are just as heavy as sedans... the traction differences are less thatn you'd expect

here maybe you forgot the meaning

BORROW

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Borrowing)

Borrow or borrowing can mean: to receive (something) from somebody temporarily, expecting to return............. (and return that shit after use, not a year later)

lol when i last spoke to wayne..i told him if he needed it in a hurry i'd return it..its just sitting here all safe and sound..and at this stage..he hasnt contacted me to get it back..sabbai and few of you boys all knwo where I live so im not goin anywhere anytime soon :)

but anyways since the topic was for the xr6 lol..not the exhaust..basically everyone thinks as far as something more practical is concerned but with similar power the xr6t is a decnt upgrade...mmm might go shopping this weekend then..just gotta clear a few cars outta the driveway first...anyone want a slightly used (and missing a few parts) vp $200 lol of a shell of a pintara trx $50 lol...gotta get the skyline and vk going too..I hate cars...

XR6 turbo's make good power with minimal modifications, stock car with a flash tune makes 248rwkw - That's a generic tune

I would personally go for a series 2 as any problems with the series 1 would have been fixed up in the series 2

Agreed. If you can stretch your budget to a BA MKII or BF go this route and get the 6 speed manual.

The BA MKI did have a few known issues (diff etc) that were rectified in later models.

Over all I think they are useless though, what good is 250rwkw if the car handles like a container ship but that being said it depends what your using the car for

Probably the only thing it would be good for (performance wise) is 1/4 mile with some work to the gearbox but after all it weighs far more than your skyline, its about twice the size and its a family sedan. Its not made for track/circuit work, more comfort and cruising with a sporty edge?

With a few suspension mods they handle well. A stock R33 doesn't exactly handle like a go-kart either.

They are really not that heavy (only 150-200kg more than an R34) and certainly not that much wider/longer either, well not enough to really notice when you park it anyway.

I'd say go for it, as chances are the car will be used 98% for street use so having an extra few doors and a bit of extra weight wont be that noticable.

XR6T is one of the best value falcowhores you can get. Was looking at buying one of these babies years ago when they came out.

The engine and transmission in the XR6T were light years ahead of the crappy pushrod lumps of irons in the local V8s when it came out. It is very easy to make big power out of the engine with just bolt-ons. Air Power Systems have very comprehensive, banf-for-your buck kits eg., 390kw and 10 sec car with bolt-ons

http://www.airpowersystems.com/falcon/xr6turbo.htm

I believe some of their milder stage I systems are street legal...

Whack on a whiteline suspension kit, AP brakes and you're good to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...