Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice clean work there, mate - looks good. Personally I wouldn't mount both the mid and tweeter in the kickpanel. Maybe do the mid there and find a place for the tweeter where there's still a clear path for the sound to reach the ears of the people in the car. High frequencies are very directional, and you'll lose them altogether if they're down by your feet. I put mine up behind the mounts for the wing mirrors which works fine. Ideally they should be closer to the main driver, but it was easier this way.

I've never seen that door/seat trim in a 32 before? Is that an NA model or something? EDIT: Ah, it's a 4 door by the looks of it?

Edited by HuH
  • 4 weeks later...

Hasn't anyone put speakers in their r32 kickpanels before?

I cut the middle out of my kickpanels and mounted the speakers in mdf rings that were held in place with metal straps.

post-13288-1216560238_thumb.jpg

I listened to them like this and tried different angles by adjusting the straps.

Once I was happy with the sound I made fibreglass backings and stretched fabric over them before coating them in resin and laying fg matting behind them.

post-13288-1216561214_thumb.jpg

After a bit of sanding they are ready to cover in vinyl.

post-13288-1216560441_thumb.jpg

Due to the complicated contours the vinyl will have to be vacuum formed so I've sent them away to be done.

I'll post more pics when they're finished.

Awesome job.. but the problem with having speakers so low and fr away in the footwell is that it bring the "Stage" of the music very low.

I used a single 3 inch tweeter at the base of the A pillar and it really opens the sound up and brings the tage almost head level..

I was hugely surprised.

Just a thought..

Awesome job.. but the problem with having speakers so low and fr away in the footwell is that it bring the "Stage" of the music very low.

I used a single 3 inch tweeter at the base of the A pillar and it really opens the sound up and brings the tage almost head level..

I was hugely surprised.

Just a thought..

It's much easier to get stage height than it is to achieve a solid centre image in a car.

The main reason for placing speakers in the kickpanels is to get them as far away as possible so that the difference in the distance between the left and the right speaker and the listener is as small as possible.

There can be issues with stage height but careful postioning and angling of the speakers and tuning with an equaliser can help overcome this.

I spent time listening to this setup before building it in fibreglass and the stage is dash top height at low volume but rises above that as the volume increases.

thats brilliant man, great job, very good idea with the metal bar too, i would even suggest doing the same for the passenger, there is nothing worse than having a passenger come in and kick the crap out of your nice new setup, and it looks kinda stylish too.

I agree with the placement of the tweeters that they should be up higher, i think that you can go wrong putting them on the panel opposite the door mirrors, considering its a common place its probably because it works well.

But anyhow nice work, look forward to seeing the tweeters in

thats brilliant man, great job, very good idea with the metal bar too, i would even suggest doing the same for the passenger, there is nothing worse than having a passenger come in and kick the crap out of your nice new setup, and it looks kinda stylish too.

I agree with the placement of the tweeters that they should be up higher, i think that you can go wrong putting them on the panel opposite the door mirrors, considering its a common place its probably because it works well.

But anyhow nice work, look forward to seeing the tweeters in

I thought about using a bar on the passenger's side but if I put it in the same position as the bar needs to be on the driver's side it wouldn't do much to protect the speakers anyway.

I'm not sure I follow your comments regarding tweeter placement, typo perhaps?

There is no perfect place for speakers in a car so placement will always be a compromise.

The bottom speaker is my tweeter.

I said why I chose this setup in a previous post.

The stage height is quite good, even excellent at higher volume.

Our ears are easily tricked by careful alignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...