Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peeps thinking of getting these rimms for my car if they fit.

what do you reckon??from what i remember they measure in at:

front:19x9.5 35+

rear:19x 10.5 35+

post-42381-1214362132_thumb.jpg

and this is the car theyll be goin onto...

post-42381-1214362269_thumb.jpg

oh and any ideas on which rimms u think will look good let me know

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225440-yl859-versus-rimms/
Share on other sites

yea they look really nice in person. ive tried 18x12 rimms (didnt fit) and 18x11 with a crazy offset of -19 these were about an each too wide. so i was thinkg spacers on these. hopefully there wide enough as i really like the style

are the guards Dmax items? they look freakin sick so does the wheels ;D hehehe

not quite sure what guards they are but definitly not dmax. mine measure 75mm all around or there abouts. ive kinda got my head set on them just hope they fit ok

Yeah those widths are fat but they won't fill the guards with that offset. No worries though, just run spacers and you'll be sweet. More width is even more $$ on tyres. Some 20mm spacers might do the trick?

EDIT: I just re-read your post above about the 18x11 wheels that were an inch too wide with an offset of -19 (!!!). In that case you'll need bigger spacers than 20mm! Those guards obviously flare more than they look to me in the pics.

Edited by HuH
Umm offset? Don't think +35 is gonna look flush. You'll need at least -6 for that to fill anything. And don't buy rims with crap offset with the intention of putting spacers on.

yea thats wat im afraid of.yea the use of spacers is a last resort but just want to make sure to see what they look like.

you need +10 or similar offset with ur guards...

hmm the offset the guy gave me said it was a guess as the 19's arent in the country yet. the offset maybe lower.i know they wont sit flush but will just have to wait and see how they look.

and yea ill post pics when i eventually get them on :D

Why the hell did you bother getting wide guards and then intend on getting wheels that won't fill them at all? It will look like absolute crap. To get those wheels with a +35 offset looking decent, you'd need 100mm spacers and thats just not going to happen.

Those 18x11 -19 wheels will fit with EASE if you stretch some 255 tyres over them. Don't be weak, get them!

just measured the wheels and width today. standard wheels measure 6.5 yea. the width of the guards measure 85mm so thats about 3.5 inches making a total of 10inches wide to fill the guards

or am i missing something here??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...