Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Very well.

It needs at least 375-400hp

350 is not enough. its soooo heavy, even with 225/40 on a 9.5j with 50PSI i couldnt keep em spinning with TONS of clutch kicking to help unless i was at the top of hte rev range the whole time (like above 5k entering the initiation)

gtr brake upgrade is plenty to not have any brake fade for at least 15 minutes (sessions are 15 minutes each)

i stopped breaking axles, so thats good

anyways, its much more predictable than say a 180 or s13 or so. i really like it

videos will be up along with pictures, i think someone get some snaps of me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225687-so-how-does-a-stagea-drift/
Share on other sites

Very well.

It needs at least 375-400hp

350 is not enough. its soooo heavy, even with 225/40 on a 9.5j with 50PSI i couldnt keep em spinning with TONS of clutch kicking to help unless i was at the top of hte rev range the whole time (like above 5k entering the initiation)

gtr brake upgrade is plenty to not have any brake fade for at least 15 minutes (sessions are 15 minutes each)

i stopped breaking axles, so thats good

anyways, its much more predictable than say a 180 or s13 or so. i really like it

videos will be up along with pictures, i think someone get some snaps of me

in for vids mate, sounds great, so are u still running the gtr 5 speed and 4wd front diff in place as per rs four specs yes? just with a removed front shaft to stop the 4wd workin? i would love to give mine a proper go but was worried the front end is too heavy and will tend to understeer alot. I have the power but its not a very smooth transition when sliding ive found, i think im going to change coilovers soon these ones are doing my head in to be honest.

abit offtopic i know but do u know which companies make coilovers for the 260rs models still?

now get those pics and vids up, i think your stagea is one of the hottest ive seen with such a subtle and a not over the top bodykit like some kits around

have u thought about throwing on a rb25 rwd sump and a gtst 5 speed box instead? i noticed when checking specs of the stagea models and the rs four is 1620kg and the rsx with the rwd rb20e only says it weighs 1430kg, thats a huge weight saving, though im unsure how true this weight is

Edited by unique1

love to see the vids as well!

Would like to do a similar look with the ride height and wheels to my stagea, but not sure how well that would go down...

Ive taken mine for a lil bit of a slide and i agree with the predictability - its easy to anticipate what the car is going to do. I like it. Slides well til the atessa torques up the front and pulls you straight. The 4wd stageas have hicas, too...? Are you running a hicas lock or anything?

in for vids mate, sounds great, so are u still running the gtr 5 speed and 4wd front diff in place as per rs four specs yes? just with a removed front shaft to stop the 4wd workin? i would love to give mine a proper go but was worried the front end is too heavy and will tend to understeer alot. I have the power but its not a very smooth transition when sliding ive found, i think im going to change coilovers soon these ones are doing my head in to be honest.

abit offtopic i know but do u know which companies make coilovers for the 260rs models still?

now get those pics and vids up, i think your stagea is one of the hottest ive seen with such a subtle and a not over the top bodykit like some kits around

have u thought about throwing on a rb25 rwd sump and a gtst 5 speed box instead? i noticed when checking specs of the stagea models and the rs four is 1620kg and the rsx with the rwd rb20e only says it weighs 1430kg, thats a huge weight saving, though im unsure how true this weight is

yep just have a front driveshaft removed, thats it.

everything else is stock. im about to eliminate the attessa shit in the back but just gotta find time.

I was having a problem with understeering, but i just went to lower front and higher rear tire pressure and lowered hte damper setting on the front a few clicks and it pretty much stopped it.

not doing that much work with changing engines and shit. too much work with not enough effort

the car is 3700lbs...100 lbs isnt going ot make a shit bit of difference in drifting.

up next?

2617370105_f43551c441.jpg

watch out pedestrians

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...