Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

No the first place you could ask is me .

Which FJ20 inlet manifold do you want as there are two DR30 variations and the S12 Gazell type .

The one I used in the Bluebird I had 4 cars ago was the slightly larger plenum volume early version . I removed the external EGR log from the lower side of the runners and the throttlebody flange was removed and welded back on at a better angle for the old birds intercooler plumbing .

I have all three and their native fuel rails and FPR's from memory so drop us a PM and make an offer .

In Syd , cheers A .

BTW still have all sorts of FJ20 odds and endz looking for new homes ie Gazell engine mount brackets (v hard to find nowdays) Gazelle thermo housing , loom, Gazelle turbo exhaust manifold and cast dump pipe (no fire wall mods) and these dumps have the waste gate integrated unlike the DR30's extra flapper plate and small bore bolt on elbow , intercooled DR30 ECU , odds and endz .

There is a lot of miss information about inlet manifolds and in this case the std DR30 manifold is not as bad as many think .

The ultimate system is individual throttlebodies and is why Nissan used them on RB26's and the GTiR spec SR20 .

Still while the Japs race 9-11000 rpm drag engines the copy cats think its the way to go .

A .

  • 3 weeks later...

Actually thats only partially true, the RB26 was designed to compete in the up to 4500cc touring car class.

And as such was a curcuit car engine firstly.

ITB's give better response,not necessarily more power.

I guess it depends on exactly what you are trying to make.

A drag car would want 1 large t/b over itb's.

The other way around for raod/track car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...