Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest KILLER-T

Well im glad someone knows what happend to it because i dont it might of been the tune it could of been me thrashing it to much or it might of been the usless shop that did my first cooler.I couldnt point the finger at anyone i would of liked to but im still not 100% sure why it died.All i know is it cost alot to get fixed :)

Its running about 322 at the moment, as soon as we put the bosch 910 pump in it richened up the top end of the fuel map again :) So far the turbo's been on for 3 weeks, maybe 4 weeks now... havent had any issues, pulls like an ox, until the feel the stock ecu pulling the timing out and retarding and then dumping in a heap of fuel. I cant wait to get the wolf3d in, it will make such a difference, go for a ride in paul's car thats a monster, breaks traction so easily and pulls nice and hard. Steve at sst reckons 350hp @ treads is fine for the stock internals, just make sure you service it regularly... but with that sort of power you can be living on borrowed time, its not like our engines are spring chickens... mine is 8-9 years old now and coming up to 85,000km's.

Oh if you want 350hp at the wheels I'd go the same way as paul with the tubular manifold and the GT30. His exhaust housing is tiny compared to mine, but it makes good HP on 13-14psi... you dont want to run high amounts of boost on the stock internals, best if you can keep it under 1 bar or 15psi.

Well grant is gonna be doin my turbo and hes pretty convinced that 350 is very easily possible with stock manifold and lowish boost. I'll be getting my wolf in the next week or so. Lookin forward to it. My car is runnin stock boost nd ecu at the moment. F#ck its slow!!

Mate I'm still running the stock manifold, so it wont be an issue. I reckon get a GT30 with a wastegate attached to the exhaust housing like mine bolt it onto the stock manifold. It will be laggier than paul's cos of the manifold but it will cut your costs by about $1200-$1400 dollars. Mine makes max boost by 4600rpm, it isnt a lag monster, but it aint like a stock turbo either :)

Yeah, full boost at 4000ropm, but we've taken timing out to limit the power, so I'd expect it to spool sooner when we can give it a more aggressive tune.

I'm definately doing the internals ASAP, but finances need to replenish.

Killer, Thanks mate, I'm happy with the result, and excited about what it will do with internals, cams and more boost:D

People that want a good upgrade on a standard motor running

300rwhp should look at a 25/30 HKS bolton or a 25/40 to do it easy.Pauls car has a soft ignition map and lots of fuel so i think

if the motor is in good condition it will last but he wants more so a build is the only way to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...