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These books contain almost every imaginable option for your car!

Everything from vehicle history, technical data, engine, interior, suspension and body components to the wildest of modifications are on each page and includes pictures of specially built vehicles and parts that most people outside of Japan would not even imagine were available!

HyperRev is regarded as the definitive owners bible for tuning and customization.

Each issue is precisely focused to a particular make of vehicle and includes in depth reports, features and product listings spanning the entire spectrum of OEM and aftermarket performance tuning and styling.

Most HyperRev books are between 200 and 300 pages. For popular cars there are often multiple volumes of HyperRev books that are released.

Enthusiasts worldwide have found HyperRev books to be an invaluable resource for learning about new performance parts and planning the modification of their vehicles.

Please note: Although HyperRev is produced only in Japanese, most brands and product specifications can be read and understood in English. Needless to say, the full color pictures speak for themselves.

Features included in this Magazine are:

Shop and Manufacturer Demo Vehicles

Engine & Suspension Tuning

Circuit Spec Machine Reflections

Bodykit and Dress Up Parts Guide

Gauge, Meter, Interior Accessories Guide

Engine Tuning Parts Guide

Drivetrain Parts Guide

Suspension and Safety Parts Guide

Wheel Fitment Guide

Plus more...

update price $55 delivered in (stock items only) -

please note if issues have to be ordered in eg latest editions freight charges are added

here is some sample pages from SILVIA edition 6 (no.102):

503e_1.JPG515b_1.JPG52be_1.JPG

5451_1.JPG5565_1.JPG569d_1.JPG

57c9_1.JPG58fe_1.JPG5a5a_1.JPG

We have hundreds of other titles ON THE SHELF (SUBARU, MITSUBISHI, MAZDA, TOYOTA and so on)

  • 4 months later...

due to aussie dollar slump the 3 for $100 isnt available atthis time we can do it for $120 but for on shelf items.

FC is available but its combined with FD in same book

Hey Guys,

Do you have anything with detailed info on 1992 R32 N1's? I'm trying to gather as much info as possible, especially stock specs of car.

cheers

Bobby

Hey Guys,

Do you have anything with detailed info on 1992 R32 N1's? I'm trying to gather as much info as possible, especially stock specs of car.

cheers

Bobby

Hi Bobby

if there is any info on the N1 it will be incorporated in the GTR books as parts are the same these are aftermarket books they may niot have much info on stock form vehicles sorry

Hi There,

I have a BNR34 V-Spec, can u tell me wats the diff between:

HR 100, 109, 15, 58, 90

and which 1 would be better to get (i only want stuff that is relevant to my spec).

thanks

hi guys as with the other question regarding the N1 R32 the hyperrevs focus on after market components and an example for an R34 GTR almost everything will suit the entire 34 GTR range whether it be N1 through to NUR Spec as the parts are all the same ie wheels, elec, bodykits so on



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    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
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    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
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