Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally, I'd be going for a stock turbo if you don't want to break things...

I'm running a T04R on the same setup as you, except for ceramic coated pistons, and a flowed head...

I hit 4000RPM and just snap into massive amounts of torque...

Off boost drives really well, but once above 4000RPM it REALLY Hauls ass...

I'm not sure a stock turbo on the rb30det is a wise thing for reliability as they choke up way too much.

Mine used to ping so damn easily and ran bugger all ignition timing.

The tune with the GT30 is much less highly strung. The stock turbo was right on knocks doorstep even though we were running next to no ignition.

As a comparison the stock turbo running 12psi tailing off to 9psi saw a peak of 13-14degree's.

Drop the GT30 on and an instant 20degree's through out the rev range.

I'm not sure a stock turbo on the rb30det is a wise thing for reliability as they choke up way too much.

Mine used to ping so damn easily and ran bugger all ignition timing.

The tune with the GT30 is much less highly strung. The stock turbo was right on knocks doorstep even though we were running next to no ignition.

As a comparison the stock turbo running 12psi tailing off to 9psi saw a peak of 13-14degree's.

Drop the GT30 on and an instant 20degree's through out the rev range.

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power.

And we know revs also kill motors.

I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power.

And we know revs also kill motors.

I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

What sort of rev's are you talking about?

The usual 7000rpm is fine for the rb30det.

With regards to the rb30dett running twin rb20 turbo's.. You've missed my point. :blush:

A 'single' rb20 or rb25 turbo on the rb30det's chokes them up reduces the available rev range. Causes detonation and has them living on the edge. You have to pull a heap of ignition timing out of it and even then it still pings so damn easily as soon as the weather warms up.

Mine with its stock turbo made its peak power at 4400rpm and felt like you hit the brakes at 5500rpm. Definitely not fun nor did it accelerate quick. Possibly with a 3.45:1 diff ratio but with the 4.3:1 diff ratio the lack of rev's absolutely killed its acceleration. The power band was compressed not widened. :(

No point having 110rwkw at 2000rpm unless your towing or pulling stumps. :(

Cubes, I am need of a turbo for my conversion and I was thinking something like this would be good,

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...T30/GT3071R.htm

With a .63 or .82 A/R,

Thats not to small is it?

Definitely don't go with the .6 on the rb30.

I personally wouldn't go any smaller than the GT3076 .82 on the rb30det which is what I went.

Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up.

I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256.

It has heaps of mid range a perfect street setup. I can click third gear from 60km/h and torque away from rb25 and 26's making similar power that are sitting in second from 60km/h's without any problems.

And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down.

The GT3582r with a .6 rear will push 340-350rwkw spool slightly later than the GT3076r .82 and have slightly decreased throttle response. Which is most noticeable in the lower loading quicker reving gears.

Up from there is the Gt3582r .82 for another 40-50rwkw cams then GT4088r etc etc :devil:

IMO

Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up.

I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256.

Its called a transposition error, you can tell because the difference is divisible by 9, ie...265-256 = 9 or example.........1170 or 1710, diff = 540/60 = 9, whenever the difference is equally divisbled by 9, its called a transposition error, common mistake in bookkeeping - I studied Commerce at UNI :-)

And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down.

Thats exactly what I am looking for, for the moment I am running an N/A RB30 5spd, and old uni'd half-shafts and 27spline'd stub axles, dont want the power delivery to come slammin on at 4000rpm!!!

Just curious about manifolds as well Cubes, those turbo's dont have internal gates and I cant fit in a high mount manifold - absolutely no way does it fit under the bonnet of my Z,

Are you modding the stock low-mount and sticking a blow-off valve on top?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...